A large, dark room, music pumping, people and tables packed tightly and in the centre an open kitchen with a large grill, the embers glowing, cuts of meat smoking as they’re licked by the heat.
I’m in Chotto Matte on Frith Street in London’s Soho, upstairs from an even more heaving bar on the ground floor and, courtesy of this Peruvian-Japanese fusion, I’m about to sample the meat that is charring on the grill.
