Any meal that starts with a martini and a bikini has a lot going for it. At Marmelo, the martini is served so cold your teeth chatter, and the bikini, named for a 1950s Iberian nightclub of the same name, is a warm toastie of jamon and lush sheep milk cheese.

It’s the perfect three-bite introduction to Ross and Sunny Lusted’s Portuguese-inspired restaurant at the foot of the swish new Melbourne Place hotel in Russell Street.