″This wine ticks all the boxes,” says sommelier and educator Liinaa Berry. “It has great complexity, and it will age beautifully over a long time. It’s the kind of wine you could happily sell to any burgundy or pinot noir lover.”

I can see exactly what she’s talking about. As I swirl, sniff and sip my glass, I’m entranced by the hints of undergrowth, the silky yet grippy tannins, the layers of flavour. Except it’s not a red burgundy I’m tasting. Or even a pinot noir. It’s a beaujolais, made from gamay grown in the granite-rich soils of Moulin-à-Vent.