I’m drinking beer and eating quesadillas at a new brewery cellar door. Nothing unusual about that – except this operation isn’t tucked down some inner-city laneway. The new home of Sailors Grave Brewing is in among the sand dunes a couple of kilometres outside Marlo, at the mouth of the Snowy River in East Gippsland. Or – as you can’t help thinking after driving four or five hours to get here – bloody miles from anywhere.

“Yes, we could have set up closer to Melbourne,” says Sailors Grave co-founder Gab Moore. “But I’m glad we didn’t. As stressful as the last few years have been getting this place going, now that we’re open and brewing and see the bar operating and the people coming, it feels good. It’s unique.” There is certainly nowhere else in Australia quite like Dunetown, as Gab and Chris Moore have dubbed their new home.