The correct number of Michelin stars is one. For two and three, judges tend to expect things of the service and decor that will be lost on almost all diners.

What other glitches are there in the guide? Europe is slightly over-represented versus the United States, most of which was passed over with majestic hauteur until the recent past. Also, the classic knock against Michelin food – the stinginess of the servings – is almost the opposite of the real problem now, which is the deceptive richness of small bites. Most tasting menus should be a course or three shorter. (Trivet near London Bridge is that rare thing: double-starred and à la carte only.)

Financial Times