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While many ramen shops stress-test one’s eardrums with a loud welcome cheer, this stylish 21-seater is more muted – proof of its quiet confidence. Chef-owner Ryo Northfield offers distinctive takes on shoyu, the soy sauce-based ramen that’s a light and refined alternative to tonkotsu.

See the influence of his mentor Hiroyuki Sakai, Iron Chef’s French specialist, in salty, luscious clam ramen with burnt butter, and a duck version freshened up by yuzu. Purists can fall back on the signature – pork shoyu with torched pork belly – but every diner has the choice of straight noodles or a chewier, wavy kind.

Imported beers, plum wine, sake and cocktails fit most budgets and occasions. Try the Tokyo Breeze’s blend of shochu, green tea and umeshu. Keen to spend? At $80, wagyu ramen with a blanket of M9+ sliced sirloin is surely Melbourne’s splashiest soup.