Shane Delia’s Windsor offshoot of his hatted CBD restaurant Maha delivers a slightly more accessible version of the Middle Eastern feasts and arak drinks the original is known for.

The moody bistro has bar stools fit for solo diners, but the menu is ideal for sharing. Baked-to-order fat bread is brushed with toum (Lebanese garlic dip) and toasted fennel seeds in a flavourful vessel for herby whipped hummus or arjoli (Maltese poached tuna pate).

Maha’s signature roasted lamb shoulder — a recipe updated twice a year — falls off the bone, its fat crispy and caramelised. There’s plenty to choose from in the cocktail department, though the pomegranate sour has become a standout over the years.