It’s more than a year since the team behind Geelong favourites Felix and Alma took over this stunning riverside venue, and a well-judged renovation and crowd-pleasing menu with Middle Eastern touches have won many hearts.

Sit in the more formal restaurant to share slices of bronzed halloumi while you admire sage tiles and dark green marble that cleverly bring the eucalyptus scenery indoors.

Sharp pomegranate molasses cuts through confit duck strewn over a giant cauliflower fritter. Unbelievably crunchy fried chicken is spangled with sumac-spiked honey and – coeliacs rejoice – it’s gluten-free. Caramelised filo pastry with strawberry and white chocolate is all crunch and creaminess.

More into breakfast pizza and smashed avo? The adjoining cafe with playground is already on regular rotation among locals who roam the three-acre grounds with takeaway coffees and massive grins.