This iconic old hotel is popular with locals and the courtyard fills quickly on warm mountain days. A fire burns in the bar, but never seems to be lit on the other side of the fireplace, where diners shiver through their meals. Rug up and the food is worth it. Service is warm and friendly - when our wine wasn't up to scratch it was replaced without fuss. The crumbed lambs' brains were delicious and the salt-and-pepper squid with spicy dipping sauce was succulent. Main courses are generous, supersized with chips and salad. A tomato-based baked eggplant was a little rich but bangers and mash with onion and gravy hit the spot.