No, it isn’t Christmas in Connecticut. It’s Harris Park by night, where Wigram Street lights up with every coloured fairy light in the Griswold spectrum. At the centre of this Little India is Haveli. Adraki lamb chops are juicier than the gossip pages, and the Kashmiri spice mix they get acquainted with overnight is lavishly red and aromatic. Surf’s up on clarified butter beach with the ghee roast masala dosa, an airy pancake rolled into a tube and stuffed with gleaming potatoes. Gulab jamun (cheese-based dessert dumplings in rosewater syrup) are for purchase on the way out. Doing so is highly recommended.