Chat Thai's essence of wok hits first. Then the noise: singsong greetings from staff, chatter from predominantly Thai diners, and soft pounding of pestle on mortar and whir of kitchen blenders. Food delivers another sensual boost. Different lunch, dinner and supper menus cover the full spectrum of Thai street food. Plump prawn cakes are enhanced by pickled plum relish. Lamb is chargrilled to ideal inner pinkness, and roasted duck and egg noodles in five-spices broth is peppery and loaded with soft meat. Sweet and salty coconut cream puddings delightfully bypass the Western dessert comfort zone.