Here’s an idea to lift the collective mood of Sydney’s somewhat battle-hardened public transport commuters: a cafe at every stop! OK, so the logistics could be a challenge, but I want what the commuters who board the ferries at Kirribilli Wharf have got.

Built right onto the wharf itself, Anvil Coffee Co has been serving those lucky commuters, as well as locals, since opening last October. Owners Paul Makomaski and Rani Reddy sourced second-hand timber to build the cafe themselves, stamping their Anvil logo onto wood on the walls and old school (literally) chairs, giving it a rustic, sea shanty-style feel. Enormous windows give wide views over the water for those who score a table inside, with extra seating at the back for those who need more space - this area seems popular for those with prams.

With a small open kitchen, the all-day menu revolves around good things on toast or in a roll. The Smithie roll - a poached egg and Bangalow ham with onion jam and winter slaw in a panini - appears to be the go-to order on a chilly morning, and I’m eyeing the rare roast beef sarnie with horseradish mayo and watercress, available (as is the house cheeseburger) after 11am.

Two dishes listed simply as "something savoury" and  "something sweet" are ordered. In the first dish, broad beans and peas are crushed with leek and lemon onto well-toasted sourdough, topped with a tangle of watercress, rocket, mint and shaved pecorino, a burnished slice of grilled chorizo adding a whack of salty savouriness. Our waitress had suggested we add a soft-poached egg, and the dish feels more complete with it.

The sweet, meanwhile, is a grown-up sugar hit, with pink stewed rhubarb and fresh mint on a slice of seeded sourdough toast spread with a creamy housemade ricotta. A gingery maple syrup and ginger crumble adds bite.

It’s a plate of buttered Arabian eggs, however, that really impresses. Two slices of toasted sourdough are spread with sweet, dark onion jam, topped with soft-poached eggs, fresh shredded mint and burnt chilli flakes. Served on a swoosh of tart yoghurt, it’s then drizzled in melted butter. It is fantastic, with a beautiful balance of textures and heat.

Our piccolo lattes, using the Pacemaker blend from Surry Hills’ Sample Coffee Roasters, are smooth and chocolatey, and there’s a selection of Tea Craft tea. We order pots of malty Red Mystic and the Digestif peppermint and lavender blend, served in cast iron pots with floral china.

Breakfast over, we get to thinking about furniture design. These musings have been prompted by the awkward tables at which diners are sitting - they look great, crafted from heavy reclaimed wood, but the design of the legs means there’s nowhere for ours to go but sticking out to the side. Awkward enough for those of us of average height, but I’d be curious to see how a six-footer managed it.

And then a quick ride back to Circular Quay. We’re still working out our cafes-at-every-stop plan. We’ll let you know when we hear back from Gladys Berejiklian.

THE LOW-DOWN
THE PICKS Buttered Arabian eggs, "something sweet"
THE COFFEE Sample Coffee Roasters
THE LOOK Shabby-chic sea shanty
THE SERVICE Laid-back but attentive