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The upsell attempts begin via text the day before your booking. A glass of Dom and a caviar bump on arrival? A signature lobster roll or the abalone claypot rice? The truth is, you need not forfeit your wallet to strike gold at S’more, helmed by chefs “Big” Sam Young and Grace Chen.

Raw Hokkaido scallops offer a lesson in quiet luxury, the flesh resting on wheels of cucumber and soused in coconut milk and a shellfish oil that pulls no punches. Meaty pork ribs tread a similarly gutsy path, charged with the sticky sweet-and-sour depth of aged vinegar caramel.

True, the seriously baller cellar and hulking cuts of big-name beef may be somewhat at odds with the modest atmospherics, but if anything, the surrounds leave room to over deliver on the plate. Even if the Yuenyeung creme caramel wobbles like panna cotta, it tastes more like Hong Kong-style coffee milk tea than the real thing.