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Every so often a new restaurant slots so naturally into place that you would swear it had been there all along. This is one of those venues.

Set by the old horse stables at Rowlee Wines, there’s a smart use of space, with thick curtains dividing the room and turning focus to the farmland outside. And if you can navigate an a la carte menu light on details and heavy on commas – “Apple, pine, caramel” – you’ll discover a list of smart, considered dishes by chef Simon Furley.

Purple potato crisps come from local “Farmer Doug”, supercharged with chicken fat mayonnaise; “cured fish, coal mayo, salad” is a tasty take on a classic Danish smorrebrod topping; and charred leek with rich Maffra cheddar roux is a standout.

Stick around for the slow-roasted quince gelato textured with candied fennel and olive oil – all the evidence you need of Furley’s smarts.