Stamatios Plangetis and his wife Maria opened one of Sydney’s first gyro joints, “The Yeeros Shop”, in Marrickville in 1976, running it for nearly 40 years. Now, they’ve passed the skewer on to their son John, who has just opened his first souvlaki shop in Ramsgate.

The resemblance is unmistakable: fresh ingredients, simple, traditional recipes and time-honoured techniques. Seasoned spits of lamb, chicken, pork and beef rotate behind the counter, while souvlaki skewers spit and sizzle on the grill. The meat is hand-cut onto fluffy pitas or plates, then topped with lettuce, tomato and onion, with add-ons like tabouli and haloumi.

The best part is the chips—fresh-cut daily, just like dad used to make them, with the option to add a dollop of tzatziki on top.