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It’s billed as “your neighbourhood bistro”. Easily said. But this long-time local matches the pitch – a converted house with surrounding greenery, affable service, beaut food, good wine.

Under the yellow-striped awning or along the banquettes, everyone’s doing pâté, tartare and steak frites. But you might also spread lightly smoky trout rillettes onto dark barley-rye crisps then head confit duck-wards, the meat flaked on soft lentils and juiced up with figs. Pepper steak, served blushing in a punchy gravy, is another fine idea, and co-owner Stewart Parsons’ reserve wine list can match it with an interesting gamay.

Quartered iceberg dredged in sheep’s cheese “snow”, and onion-y peas a la francaise are the sides you’re looking for. And the light and lovely caramelised apple millefeuille? Yep, we’ll have what everyone else is having.