Thirty years in business suggests Tien Dat is doing something right. In an area rife with Asian restaurants, this Vietnamese treasure fills both levels every night. Bookings are essential as are lively rice-paper rolls stuffed with impossibly thin strips of tofu or succulent pork. Specialities include salt-and-pepper squid; but juicy, lightly battered ling among a colourful medley of vegetables reduces chatty diners to silence. Bounteous bowls of rice vermicelli arrive scattered with crushed peanuts, julienned carrot, fish sauce and your choice of topping – try tender lemongrass beef with spring rolls.