It's places like this laidback, charismatic and driven by an instinct for good, simple food that have forged Castlemaine's reputation as 'North Northcote'. Making full use of the wealth of excellent local produce, a beautiful Goldfields-era corner hotel and the friendly staff, it's ideal for a light meal with drinks. perhaps a baby beet and quinoa salad, the roasted sweetness of the roots playing against salty whipped feta and the freshness of mint; or dense, stubby chorizo, lolling in a vivid green puddle of chimichurri in the company of juicy prawns. But it's equally appropriate for something more substantial, perhaps discs of rabbit ballotine dressed with cornichons and parsley, followed by a whole pan-fried snapper with an 'explosive' green sauce and more fresh herbs. Finish with one of several outstanding desserts, such as sago pudding with tart granny smith sorbet, or pave of dark Peruvian chocolate with honeycomb and armagnac ice-cream.