It's not much to look at- a squashy, red-walled shopfront with a handful of tables- but the yum cha, using 90 per cent organic and free-range ingredients, is exceptional. Bamboo steamers are stacked above head height, waiting to carry superb har gau, with big pieces of tiger prawn in translucent wrappers; outstanding doughy buns, soft and light, filled with gingery chicken or juicy pork; crisp-fried spring rolls with shredded veg; or lotus-leaf parcels of sticky rice with whole shiitake mushrooms. There's soup too- organic chicken and sweet corn, strewn with eggwhite. If only all yum cha could be this good.