At the foothills of the Alps, Range restaurant's decor is simple and bold, with bare black tables, grey walls, and red accents in sculptural art glass. The menu might feature Myrtleford butter and ricotta, Murray Valley pork, Wangaratta lamb, beef and ocean trout from Tasmania, and West Australian Cone Bay barramundi - evidence of a chef who supports regional but thinks Australia-wide. The cooking is adventurous - ocean trout tartare served on a smear of Dijon mustard with microherbs and a quail egg is a satisfying entree with punchy flavours; while the filled zucchini flower with preserved lemon, beetroot and hazelnuts may be an enthusiastic but less successful mix. A lamb dish that combines rack and braised shoulder with a haricot-bean puree might provide succulent cutlets but a rectangle of braised shoulder was a little dry. Desserts appeal, especially Stanley apples between fine leaves of pastry, salted caramel and spice icecream. Floor staff are friendly.