You can regularly spot Mildura’s celebrity chef, Stefano de Pieri, around town, but no longer behind the stoves at this low-ceilinged cellar – Stefano has bequeathed the kitchen to former apprentice Jim McDougall, whose modern menu sits comfortably among Victoria’s best. Some things haven’t changed – local produce including kangaroo, cod and yabbies accounts for 80 per cent of what comes out of the kitchen, on a degustation that’s kept a surprise from diners. Six or eight courses might include yabby to be swiped through luscious grape-crowned Murray cod liver parfait; kangaroo carpaccio to swirl through piquant wild mustard ‘ice-cream’; and pecorino agnolotti in smoked butter sauce. Expect extras along the way like charcuterie of goat, venison and pork; sublime tomato sorbet in gazpacho; and fruit-jube petits fours. Service is confident and upbeat, though you may hear more about the wine than the food. With a just-right jazz soundtrack, it’s romantic, quiet, and unless you’re a local, a perfect gourmet getaway.

And … Half-price degustation for junior gourmands.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Quiet and romantic.
Best bit Some truly memorable food.
Worst bit Upstairs loos.