Ham and cheese, but make it ‘hectic’: this salty-sweet monte cristo is seldom seen in Melbourne
For the unacquainted, think of it as a ham and cheese sanger on steroids. Why? When ordered, it’s deep-fried until gloriously golden.
Aileen Seo and Jiho Sur – the siblings behind North Melbourne’s Baguette Studios – grew up in South Korea where one of their “all-time favourite childhood foods” was from Irish-themed American chain restaurant Bennigan’s: the monte cristo sandwich.
“We haven’t seen many places in Melbourne or Australia do it the proper way … and most people have never heard of it,” says Seo. “That’s why we wanted to bring it here.”
If you’re one of those people for whom the monte cristo remains a mystery, read on to get the lowdown on Baguette Studios’ version, which has caught the attention of Sandwich watch, a column dedicated to the sangers you need to know about.
So, what exactly is a monte cristo?
Love a croque monsieur? Or French toast? Or the Italian mozzarella in carrozza (fried mozzarella sandwich)? Chances are you’ll be a fan of the American monte cristo, a truly decadent sandwich that’s said to have French origins. For the unacquainted, think of it as a ham and cheese sanger on steroids: dipped in egg or batter, then pan- or deep-fried.
What goes into this one?
It starts with puffy, thick-cut white bread – one of the few baked goods not made by the team’s offshoot bakery The Library (which no longer has a physical shopfront). The slices are lathered with mayo, then layered with two kinds of cheese – American and Swiss – and a few folds of virginia ham. To order, the sandwich is dunked in an egg mix, dredged in panko and deep-fried until a gloriously golden coating forms on the outside.
To serve, it’s quartered into triangles, lined up on an oval plate and dusted with icing sugar, alongside a pot of house-made blueberry compote and a tiny jug of maple syrup.
What’s it like?
Hectic, but in a good way. First comes a serious crunch courtesy of the craggy crust, somehow not oil-logged, from which globs of melty American cheese emerge as you chomp through. Then, an almost-overpowering sweetness from the icing sugar and Swiss cheese, before the ham swoops in for a salty reprieve. The not-too-sweet blueberry compote adds another dimension, bringing a burst of freshness to every bite it stains indigo. To not upset the salty-sweet balance, I’d go lighter on the maple syrup.
What do diners think?
“It’s so popular, surprisingly!” says Seo. “It started as a weekend special but then lots of people were asking for it on weekdays so we had to add it to the [regular] menu.”
Some ordering advice
Worried that demolishing a whole monte cristo might leave you out for the count? Do as every second table – from uni students to hospital workers – is doing when Sandwich watch visits: order one for the table to share, with something contrasting like the smoked-salmon pretzel baguette. “Some people think the monte cristo is too much for one person,” says Seo. “Which makes it perfect for sharing.”
How do I get one?
The monte cristo sandwich ($23) is available at Baguette Studios, 15-27 Wreckyn Street, North Melbourne, daily, Monday to Friday 7am to 3pm, and Saturday to Sunday 8am to 4pm.