Judging by the effort required to secure a seat, it's not just locals who are fond of the Fonda (Spanih for 'small'). There are no bookings so, with help from a waiter, hunt down a colourful metal chair in the modern two-room space and quench your thirst: beer or cinnamon-heavy horchata (a rice-milk concoction), served in a jar with a straw. Made-to-order burritos might come stuffed with beef and black beans. Tastier still is a crisp chorizo quesadilla, with melted cheese and salsa oozing from the centre. Pork scratching puffs, grilled corn and chips with chipotle aioli make great drinking snacks, too.