“Growing up here – and in New Zealand – as a Filipino, we were always taught to fit in,” says John Rivera. At new restaurant Askal, opening today, “we want to let people know who we are,” he says.

Named for the “resourceful and resilient” street dogs of the Philippines, the two-level Exhibition Street diner is from a team of proud Filipinos.

Led by culinary director Rivera (ex-Amaru, Lume, Rockpool) – who also owns Filipino ice-creameries Kariton Sorbetes – are executive chef Dhenvirg Ugot (ex-Society, Paul Bocuse) and restaurant manager Carlos Consunji (ex-The Recreation, Serai), while drinks are by Ralph Libo-on (Serai). Builder Michael Mabuti is the fifth team member.

“Melbourne is so open and daring,” says Rivera. “And more and more Filipino chefs are starting to share their culture – and warm hospitality – with the city.”

Traditional flavours and techniques underpin everything at the newest addition to the city’s burgeoning Filipino scene, “but we take our liberties,” says Rivera.

“We want to be an example that Filipino food and culture can be elevated without compromising who we are or alienating people who look for the traditional food.

“Sometimes Filipino food can benefit from fresher herbs and contrasting textures that I’ve picked up from eating a lot of Vietnamese and Thai food.”

His sisig is a “lightened-up” version of the pig’s-head dish, balancing pork jowl with thinly sliced abalone, fermented rice and salted chilli, to be scooped from a sizzling platter onto crisp lettuce.

Sydney rock oysters are freshly shucked then doused in house-spiced vinegar for an aromatic punch.

The salty, succulent barbecue pork skewers are identical to those Rivera remembers Libo-on’s dad grilling in the church carpark on Sundays (“same vinegar, same soy sauce”), with house-made banana ketchup and atchara (pickled papaya).

On the cocktail front, Libo-on has let it rip creatively. For ubenthusiasts (fans of ube, the purple yam of the Philippines), the Purple Slurple is a white negroni spiked with hazelnut and crowned with a cloud of ube foam.

The Pahanocoy Dream is an Old Fashioned that captures the essence of banana cue, a Filipino street-food snack of deep-fried banana coated in caramelised brown sugar. (If Askal’s liquor licence isn’t approved in time for the opening, they’ll be made non-alcoholic.)

Reimagining the 1860s building – once a saloon, says Rivera – was about finding refinement in the roughness. Industrial steel and ducting remain exposed alongside the original brickwork, but the space is softened by a baby-blue leather banquette and iridescent capiz-shell chandeliers brought back from the Philippines.

Upstairs is an elegant private dining room where, Rivera says, “We might even crack out the karaoke!”

167 Exhibition Street, Melbourne, instagram.com/askal.melb