Everything here tastes fresh, clean, textured. So, if service is occasionally slow, the food is worth the wait. In a corner sideshow, the slicing and chopping uniformed chef prepares a generous sashimi platter with salmon, snapper, kingfish, octopus and tuna. He creates waves of flavour with spicy salmon rolls; also try grilled octopus, bathed in a fragrant ginger and sake sauce, or chunky cubes of tofu in teriyaki sauce. The golden tempura batter lightly encases prawns, vegetables and oysters. The decor is casual in a clunky '80s-vinyl style, but the cooking will carry Asakusa into the future.