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The restaurants (and dishes) Zan Rowe loves the most

From an unlikely sounding pizza in West Footscray to a boisterous French bistro, the ABC presenter shares her favourite food finds in Melbourne, Sydney and beyond.

Jane Rocca
Jane Rocca

Australian radio presenter, Bang On podcaster and ABC TV host Zan Rowe returns to our screens with a third season of Take 5 next month, serving up revealing in-depth conversations with a hit list of artists including Dannii Minogue, comedian Bill Bailey and singer Casey Donovan.

Zan Rowe’s Take 5 returns on October 1.
Zan Rowe’s Take 5 returns on October 1.Supplied

One uptick of the job is asking guests for travel dining tips —from Keith Urban’s Mas Taco Bar stop in Nashville to the rigatoni pork sausage at London restaurant LUCA, Rowe has a culinary black book that’s the envy of any food blogger.

Zan took time out from her busy schedule to share some of her favourite places to eat and drink in hometown Melbourne, Sydney and overseas. She also lifts the (olive jar) lid on her go-to dish to make at home.

Zan loves a spaghetti puttanesca, much like this midnight spaghetti from Melbourne bar Arlechin.
Zan loves a spaghetti puttanesca, much like this midnight spaghetti from Melbourne bar Arlechin.Simon Schluter
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EATING IN

Signature dish and go-to at home

I love pasta puttanesca. Pasta is my go-to if I need comfort and am feeling a bit tired after hectic work time. It’s the pantry pasta staple – the one with ingredients you can grab from jars and cans such as olives, capers and anchovies. I love tomato-based pastas, and like all Italian food, is good and not too complicated.

My guilty pleasure

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If I have a good block of comte in the fridge from a good deli, once I start, I can’t stop. I used to love getting mine from Maria’s on Nicholson Street, North Carlton, when I lived in that area. I recently purchased a great comte cheese from La Manna Essendon Fields.

The kitchen wisdom I cling to

Clean as you go. I used to work in kitchens as an early job and still hold on to this very simple rule. Once you’ve eaten a meal, the last thing you want to do is go in the kitchen and finish the job cleaning pots and pans.

EATING OUT

Melbourne

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I love Osteria Ilaria in Melbourne – sitting at the bar and sharing whatever pasta they have. It’s always changing. It has beautiful service and a laidback atmosphere.

Zan likes to sit at the bar at Osteria Ilaria.
Zan likes to sit at the bar at Osteria Ilaria. Arsineh Houspian

Toddy Shop is a newish spot I also love in Fitzroy. It’s Indian food from Kerala in the south. There’s a focus on old-school home cooking, with small silver trays of delicious food that tastes even better with a large group because you try more dishes. I ate the best paratha bread of my life here. They also make a cabbage dish adapted from the chef’s mum that is a must-try.

Broccoli pizza at Harley & Rose.
Broccoli pizza at Harley & Rose.Supplied

Gimlet is so special on every level – I had an amazing meal with four friends and shared a 900-gram T-bone steak over the grill. It was incredible. I live in the inner west; another local spot is Laksa King – it can’t be beat. Harley & Rose in Footscray make the best broccoli pizza – thinly sliced and charred to perfection. It might not sound delicious, but it’s smeared in garlic and so good.

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Warm European vibes at Gerald’s Bar in Carlton North.
Warm European vibes at Gerald’s Bar in Carlton North.Supplied

My favourite hometown cafe and/or bar (and favourite order at each)

I love Gerald’s Bar in Carlton North – a great spot and classic for a reason. Watching the sun come down as you’re sitting in the window seat is heavenly. They constantly change the menu. I had an amazing burrata and fig dish and I always leave my wine by the glass up to the staff.

Another spot near me that had a revamp is the Ascot Vale Hotel; they have turned it into a gastro-pub in the past few years. They make dim sims and have footy in the front and the bistro in the back.

For coffee, I head to anywhere serving St Ali. Industry Beans and Market Lane make great coffees, too. For delicious bowls of healthy options, I go to Terror Twilight off Smith Street.

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Terror Twilight in Collingwood: good for healthy bowls.
Terror Twilight in Collingwood: good for healthy bowls.Supplied

Favourite bars and music venues

I love The Corner Hotel in Richmond because it’s been so special to me for many years. It was one of the first places I saw live music again after the lockdowns ended, and it was emotional to go back there and be in a room full of people and celebrate with a cold beer. The Forum is one of the greatest venues in Australia and I love the bar there, too. The Gem in Collingwood is a great neighbourhood local with good vibes. There’s dancing and the food is always excellent.

Rowdy, boisterous, special: France-Soir in Toorak.
Rowdy, boisterous, special: France-Soir in Toorak.Simon Schluter

What is your favourite place to eat in Australia and the food memories you have there?

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In Melbourne, it’s France-Soir. I took my partner, Geoff, there for a surprise birthday dinner on a Friday night. We turned up at 5pm and the long-lunch types were still there. It was rowdy and boisterous and felt like we had fallen into the arms of a Parisian bistro in the 1980s. It was a special experience. We went with the classics – glass of champagne with oysters, steak frites and a glass of red. Geoff got the French onion soup. They do old-school classic bistro so well here.

SYDNEY

I love visiting a Vietnamese BBQ spot in Canley Vale called Hai Au Lang Nuong. You can see the barbeque steaming from the street. It’s not fancy, but when you’re inside, it’s like an Aladdin’s cave – a magical wonderland of colour and pictures on the wall and the most incredible barbecue I have ever eaten. It’s a hike, but worth it.

Ho Jiak in Haymarket is a Sydney favourite of Zan’s.
Ho Jiak in Haymarket is a Sydney favourite of Zan’s.Jessica Hromas
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Another favourite spot is Ho Jiak in Haymarket - good Malaysian food and the best char kway teow. Bella Brutta in King Street for the clam pizza and cavolo nero pizza. A Sydney pub I go to for a classic meal is The Old Fitzroy Hotel in Woolloomooloo, which does a good curry.

In Sydney’s CBD, I go for breakfast at The Grounds on George Street. There’s an Instagram feel to it, and the food is amazing – salads, brunch and coffee to go.

ON THE ROAD:

Favourite food city and why

Mexico City. I was there with Geoff for four months in 2019 on long service leave. It’s one of the biggest cities in the world and has an incredible blend of street food and high-end restaurants. I particularly loved the Al Pastor tacos on the street – a blend of Lebanese influences in spiced meats served with grilled red onion, cilantro and pineapple on top — delicious.

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We dined at Contramar Restaurant; a great spot for amazing seafood and dishes such as a fish and seafood soup and chowders. In the north, we ate at Nicos. Old-school Mexican fine dining – we sat next to older businessmen who were there for a classic long lunch. A great mix of home cooking with a fine dining spin.

Pujol restaurant in Mexico.
Pujol restaurant in Mexico. Supplied

The No.1 restaurant at the time was Pujol – we went there twice. The taco-tasting menu is a must, and we tried the fine dining menu – it was phenomenal. Every part of the meal and service was glorious. We had ants and mole – a Mexican-style dish cooked over 2800 days.

For breads and pastries, go to Panaderia Rosetta – a famous bakery. They also make incredible hot chocolate with real melted chocolate. They make basic breads and corn breads too.

Where do you stay when you’re there?

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We mainly stay at Airbnbs. In Mexico City, it’s around $50-70 per night. Two areas we loved were Condesa and Roma. The latter has more going on in terms of restaurants and bars. Further south is a great area called San Angel – home to artist Diego Riveria and Frida Kahlo. It’s artsy with great markets and a good vibe and not as loud and hectic as the centre.

Take 5 with Zan Rowe returns on October 1 on ABC TV and ABC iview.

Jane RoccaJane Rocca is a regular contributor to Sunday Life Magazine, Executive Style, The Age EG, columnist and features writer at Domain Review, Domain Living’s Personal Space page. She is a published author of four books.

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Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/it-might-not-sound-delicious-but-it-s-so-good-the-restaurants-and-dishes-zan-rowe-loves-20240925-p5kdc5.html