The price is right at this welcoming new Hobart eatery

There’s something for everyone on this menu – at this new Midtown restaurant – which plays nicely in the generously portioned and well-priced food game, writes Alix Davis

Alix Davis

3 min read

October 25, 2024 - 2:00PM

Wooden Horse's Fresh Tasmanian oysters Kilpatrick and chicken parmis are both great options. Picture SUPPLIED

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Horses have long been a part of Atef Seefen’s family traditions – his father and grandfather used to run a large Arabian horse stud in Egypt – so when he saw an elaborately detailed horse sculpture – carved from a single piece of Tasmanian timber, he knew he had to have it. The sculpture graced his home for many years, but has now become the namesake, centrepiece and design inspiration, of his new Midtown restaurant, Wooden Horse.

Walking into Wooden Horse on a recent midweek evening felt like walking into a friend’s living room. There’s a comfortable buzz from tables of various sizes and configurations and staff are actively greeting customers, taking orders and serving drinks. Seefan pops up regularly to check that everyone’s orders are to their liking and ask whether drinks need replenishing. There’s something for everyone on this menu, which plays nicely in the generously portioned and well-priced food game.

Wooden Horse owner Atef Seefen, and staff members Allira Lynd Williams and Fabrice Bisimwa, who pride themselves on offering patrons a warm, welcoming experience. Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

We start with a medium garlic prawn pizza ($25, large and family sizes are also available) which is a light crust topped with plenty of cheese and a scattering of prawns. Garlic is not in short supply either and it’s really a healthy serve of cheesy garlic bread with prawns and you’ll never hear me complaining about that. My husband is happy as they have a number of beers on tap including local brew, Albert, which is one of his favourites. There’s also a well-stocked bar with a decent selection of Tasmanian gins and even a bottle of Royal Swan – a mysterious drink that’s usually mixed with lemonade and to which we were introduced one rowdy night at Triabunna’s Spring Bay Hotel. Good times!

There are plenty of comfort food options on the menu, with most of it using local ingredients – one of Seefen’s core pillars. He arrived in Tasmania in 2002 while working on a cruise and quite simply, never left. His 17 years as assistant food and beverage manager at Wrest Point has given him a wealth of experience in every aspect of hospitality and it’s all being put to good use at this new venture.

Wooden Horse's Fresh Tasmanian oysters Kilpatrick and chicken parmis are both great options. Picture: Supplied

There are 10 different varieties of chicken parmi to choose from, but we save those for another day and order a serving of the Scottsdale Bourbon pork ribs ($28). I’m expecting a rack, but these come as four, very meaty, individual ribs. They’ve been marinated for 24 hours in a Moroccan spice blend before being slow-cooked for three hours. There’s a wonderful depth of flavour here and plenty of sauce that we happily swipe up with fat hot chips. A side of traditional coleslaw cuts the richness of the pork.

Wooden Horse’s tasty Scottsdale Bourbon pork ribs which have been marinated for 24 hours in a Moroccan spice blend before being slow-cooked for three hours. Picture Supplied

Wooden Horse’s more-ish garlic prawn pizza. Picture: Supplied

Our second main is the pulled beef brisket burger ($24), which involves a mound of meltingly tender shredded beef – cooked for six hours Seefen tells us, topped with a slice of cheese and encased in a soft burger bun. It’s absolutely delicious – rich and flavourful with enough beef to make this a real main course burger. The chips and coleslaw on the side are also swiftly devoured. We can hear tables around us enjoying their food and there’s a lovely, friendly atmosphere here. Happy hour from 4-8pm makes drinks affordable and there are various food specials on throughout the week.

Seefan says that the design of the space is all his own work and was a chance to showcase all the Tasmanian timber he’s been collecting over the years – apparently his wife is thrilled to have it out of the house! The bar is clad in thin slabs of raw, live-edge timber, while the lighting fixtures are glossily varnished. The bar and tables are also live-edge timber and the walls have been painted by a local street artist.

Bring your appetite when you visit Wooden Horse, it’s a great place for a group dinner as I’m confident everyone will find something to suit. Saddle up, Hobart!