Say hello to this nurturing new Hobart cafe
This new Battery Point light-filled eatery has a warm and luminous quality that makes it instantly welcoming and offers great locally produced, wholesome food, writes ALIX DAVIS
Food and Wine
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Type “meaning of leoht” into Google and you’ll get back “light, bright, clear, luminous. shining, resplendent, cheerful, beautiful”.
Which is very appropriate, as I experienced the same when I walked into Leoht, a newly opened restaurant in Battery Point. Despite the grey day – spring seems to have lost its way a little this year – Leoht was full of light, with a warm and luminous quality that made it instantly welcoming. Textured walls, timber benches and a brick island all add to a feeling of low-key relaxation and ease.
The transformation of Leoht has taken six months and owner Chanel Parratt says that Battery Point locals “have been super welcoming” as the space evolved.
“From the first site inspection, we knew it was a diamond in the rough.”
Leoht has been open for only a few weeks, but it’s already bustling and Parratt is thrilled “to be contributing to the local community”.
The cafe is currently serving breakfast and lunch and we arrive for a late lunch on a Monday. A large round table invites larger groups to take a seat, but we’re drawn to the smaller tables for two along the wall.
There’s also a sunny courtyard that will be wonderful for warmer days.
The menu here is very much focused on Tasmanian produce.
“It has to be Tasmanian front and centre,” Parratt says. “That sits better with me ethically and sustainably. Of course, there’s no getting around the fact that bananas don’t grow in Tasmania, but they’re a great breakfast food and you really need a banana in a smoothie.
“Other than that, we’re going out of our way to be Tasmanian. There are some wonderful Tasmanian grains – quinoa, buckwheat and lentils – for example.”
You don’t need to tell us twice and we order the brown rice and quinoa bowl ($26), which comes topped with sauteed seasonal greens and a wedge of avocado. Avocados? Tasmanian?
“We have some of the best avocados in Tasmania,” Parratt says, “but the season is short, so we do need to source from elsewhere outside that.”
The salad is full of textures and flavours – my favourite kind of mouthful, with a vibrant turmeric dressing that comes in a sweet earthenware pot to pour over yourself.
The crockery and ceramics here are as textural as the rest of the venue and have been crafted by local artisans Emma Targett and Kate Bowman.
The quality of Tasmania’s food and wine was why Parratt originally moved here from Queensland. “It was the eating and drinking I fell in love with”, which is another reason for her and co-owner Harrison Scarf to focus on the state’s produce.
“Our food isn’t complex, but it is thoughtful,” Parratt says. “You can really see what the ingredients are, so there’s nowhere to hide.”
Our second dish is orecchiette with broccoli, anchovy and chilli ($28), a classic combination that’s elevated with the addition of a crunchy pangrattato topping. The little ear-shaped pasta pieces are nicely chewy and there’s a powerful umami punch in every bite.
Another dish on the lunch menu is kippers with ayurvedic-spiced rice and Tasmanian green lentils ($27), which Parratt says has become a surprise hit.
A less surprising favourite is the pancakes on the breakfast menu – a fluffy stack of golden Tasmanian buckwheat pancakes ($24) served with banana, maple cream and hazelnuts.
“We’re not screaming wholefoods and healthy, but all our food is quite natural.
“We want to give people what they want, while also getting them to rethink what breakfast looks like.”
Instead of standard corn fritters, there’s corn and jalapeño bread ($25) served with a poached egg and avocado. And of course there are plenty of sides to add on, including pasture-raised pork chipolatas, halloumi, lemon-tree bernaise and pickled veg.
Future plans for Leoht include a liquor licence, expanding to seven-day service and adding dinner a couple of nights a week. The nurturing space is also available for functions.
Step into the light.
Leoht
46A Hampden Rd, Battery Point
Opening hours: Thurs-Mon, 7.30am-3pm. They are also open on this week’s public holiday for Show Day, on Thursday, October 24.
@leoht_batterypoint
On the menu
Brown rice and quinoa bowl, $26; orecchiette pasta with broccoli, $28; smoked kippers with ayurvedic-spiced rice, $27; buckwheat banana pancakes, $24.