North Hobart’s laid-back star diner shines again
Freshly polished but still charmingly relaxed, this neighbourhood restaurant pairs smart, share-friendly food with cosy vibes and service that hits just the right note, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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The last time I reviewed Trophy Room (but certainly not the last time I ate there!), it was just spreading its wings as a brunch and lunch place that occasionally did dinner. Now, it’s a fully-fledged restaurant and one of the most-talked-about eats in town.
A recent renovation was subtle – the open kitchen is still the main feature – but it’s just a little sharper, fresher, and cosier – and really hitting its stride.
This North Hobart diner is basically a big open space with a kitchen in one corner, a communal table in the centre and smaller tables by the windows. While the kitchen team work quietly and calmly, an old-school record player (it even caught a scratch while we were there, which is a sound you don’t hear too often these days) spins tunes and adds to the vibe of laid-back efficiency. The floorstaff know their stuff and drinks are served quickly – always a good start to a meal.
While you can do a well-priced “feed me” menu for $90, we opt for a la carte and begin with a chickpea panisse topped with whipped ricotta and hot honey ($7) and a plate of pickles and ferments ($8). The panisse is a generous finger of chickpea fritter and the warmed honey over the smooth ricotta make this a three-bite morsel I could imagine enjoying for breakfast as well as dinner. The pickles are a ruby-hued pile of daikon, purple cabbage and tiny pickled onions – all sweet and vinegary in just the right proportions.
The staff note that dishes are designed to share, but if you’re not the sharing type, everything on the menu works well as a traditional entree and main.
We begin with a selection of smaller dishes and the housemade stracciatella slathered with walnut pesto and confit garlic ($20) is a triumph. I have just enough of my wedge of spelt sourdough ($5 per person) to spoon a little cheese on top and devour with alacrity.
Equally delicious is the swordfish crudo ($24), a pretty pastel dish that’s designed to be scooped on to shards of crisp-fried pitta bread. The coriander and green chilli salsa adds an extra hit of flavour.
We order both pastas and are very pleased we did. The ricotta agnolotti ($34) is plump pillows stuffed with creamy ricotta and swimming in a rich shiitake mushroom butter. Eclectic serving ware makes it feel a little like you’re at granny’s house – if your grandmother was a truly outstanding cook – and it adds a little playfulness to the meal. Our second pasta (both are housemade) is macaroni with a lamb ragu ($35) and a creamy parmesan cloud (aka cheese sauce). The flavours here are lovely – rich without being heavy – though we feel the pasta was just a tad too al dente. That certainly doesn’t stop us from finishing it and wiping the plate with the last of the bread.
Owned by chef James Latham and front-of-house manager Rose Tweeddale (life as well as business partners), Trophy Room is the evolution of Trophy Doughnuts – which enjoyed a brief stint in the CBD after starting out at Farm Gate Market. The name came from the doughnut shop, which was housed in a former trophy shop. When they moved into a corner site opposite the North Hobart oval, they decided to stick with the trophy theme. It was a medal-winning move. The team is still known for its doughnuts, which were a huge hit at the recent Winter Feast – consistently attracting long lines and selling out early.
Our final mains are hearty fare – a perfectly cooked 450g Cape Grim bone-in striploin ($55) is served sliced and with a Thai-inspired crying tiger dressing that’s a delicious contrast to a menu that has been leaning distinctly towards Europe. The steak is tender and cooked to medium/rare, which keeps everyone at our table happy. If red meat isn’t your thing, the barbecued blue eye trevalla ($42) is an excellent choice – served with a caper-studded beurre blanc and a charred rosette of sugarloaf cabbage. And, I’m not usually a mashed potato person, but I recommend ordering a side of the Paris mash ($9), it’s velvety smooth and comes surrounded by a moat of chicken sauce, elevating the humble spud to decadent heights.
The wine list is solid: a well-curated mix of local and international bottles, with enough glass options to suit most drinkers. There are a couple of beer options – some fancy, others more everyday and the staff are happy to recommend something to suit.
Trophy Room is a rare breed: a neighbourhood spot that feels special. It does everyday meals with care and style. The renovation has sharpened the place up, but it’s the thoughtful touches (like that record player), open-kitchen calm, and friendly service that make it memorable.
If you’re after a relaxed evening out with share plates, decent wine, cosy vibes, and a bit of character – without needing to dress to impress – Trophy Room is worth your time.
TROPHY ROOM
342 Argyle St,
North Hobart
Opening hours:
Wed-Sat, lunch and dinner
On the menu:
Chickpea panisse, $7; wood-fired delicata squash with macadamia sambal, $22; stracciatella with walnuts, $20; ricotta agnolotti with shiitake butter, $34; Cape Grim striploin, $55.
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