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Is this destination dining at its finest?

A hidden gem nestled on the outskirts of Launceston, Evenfall offers the chance to experience the true essence of Tasmania in every sip and every bite.

A trio of decadent Tasmanian scallops served in shell with a Casalinga chorizo crumb, pangrattato, and charred lemon. Picture: Stephanie Dalton
A trio of decadent Tasmanian scallops served in shell with a Casalinga chorizo crumb, pangrattato, and charred lemon. Picture: Stephanie Dalton

It’s no secret that lush green pastures, clean air, pure water, and rich fertile soil result in the best and freshest produce.

It’s one of the reasons Launceston has asserted its place among the world’s great epicurean destinations.

And here, on the city’s doorstep, it would be hard to argue that any place showcases the paddock-to-plate connection better than Evenfall Wines.

A hidden gem nestled on the outskirts of Legana, Evenfall is the newest addition to the Tamar Valley Wine region at the well-established site of the former Elmslie Wines.

With a wholly revitalised look to the 7.2ha vineyard, the restaurant and cellar door reopened in mid-December 2023 as Evenfall Wines. This major transformation was backed by Berried in Tas owner Richard Winspear and business partner Ben Gourlay, in collaboration with the winemaker widely regarded as “Australia’s Sparkling Queen” Natalie Fryar, of Bellebonne.

And after finally finding the time to visit Evenfall, it would be rude not to try Fryar’s award-winning Bis – a non-vintage sparkling rosé that is elegant and long with textures of fresh cream, brioche, and delicate fruit.

Evenfall’s carpaccio features delicate slices of eye fillet complemented with York Town greens, shaved grana padano, charred pickling onions, and dried capers. Picture: Stephanie Dalton
Evenfall’s carpaccio features delicate slices of eye fillet complemented with York Town greens, shaved grana padano, charred pickling onions, and dried capers. Picture: Stephanie Dalton

The word “Bis” is French for “the space in-between”, which perfectly encapsulates how I consume my first glass – in the time it takes me to peruse the restaurant’s beautifully curated menu.

At Evenfall, chef Tom Kirby, with a background in fine dining, most recently at Quamby Estate and Hazelbrae, has put together a menu that exudes elegance and charm – which set the stage for an unforgettable dining experience – with just enough variety to please most takers.

Evenfall’s fresh delightful East Coast oysters go well with a tangy raspberry agrodolce or a splash of the Bellebonne Bis sparkling rosé. Picture: Stephanie Dalton
Evenfall’s fresh delightful East Coast oysters go well with a tangy raspberry agrodolce or a splash of the Bellebonne Bis sparkling rosé. Picture: Stephanie Dalton

Of course, I can’t pass up the opportunity for some fresh East Coast oysters. These delightful morsels are served with a twist – and I’m not talking about lemon. Of course, lemon is an option, but for the more adventurous, you can try them with a tangy raspberry agrodolce or a splash of Fryar’s sparkling rosé. I recommend trying all three.

Another menu item I often have trouble saying no to is a good carpaccio.

Evenfall’s rendering begins with delicate slices of eye fillet the colour of strawberry lollies layered upon a wreath of York Town greens.

Evenfall’s succulent Tassie lamb rump on a bed of sweet carrot mash sharpened with a smokey pomegranate glaze, crispy mint leaves, and crunchy hazelnuts. Picture: Stephanie Dalton
Evenfall’s succulent Tassie lamb rump on a bed of sweet carrot mash sharpened with a smokey pomegranate glaze, crispy mint leaves, and crunchy hazelnuts. Picture: Stephanie Dalton

Then, shaved grana padano, charred pickling onions, and dried capers are spread artfully across the plate, while a vivid green herb oil adds visual contrast.

Next up, I tried a trio of decadent Tasmanian scallops served in their shells with a Casalinga chorizo crumb, pangrattato, and charred lemon.

For mains, a King Island porterhouse ticks most boxes – with onion petals, parsley oil, seeded mustard, crispy sage leaves, and a fruity but meaty jus.

Evenfall’s King Island porterhouse with onion petals, parsley oil, seeded mustard, crispy sage leaves, and jus. Picture: Stephanie Dalton
Evenfall’s King Island porterhouse with onion petals, parsley oil, seeded mustard, crispy sage leaves, and jus. Picture: Stephanie Dalton

Other mains fare even better still. The juicy Tassie lamb rump for instance – which is presented on a bed of sweet carrot mash sharpened with a smokey pomegranate glaze, crispy mint leaves, and crunchy hazelnuts – is a standout.

Another winner is the generous vego assembly that starts with crushed pink-eye potatoes roasted to perfection, then a smattering of crispy capers and a brightly flavoured salsa verde.

Evenfall’s silky-textured milk chocolate cremeux tart, paired with lemon myrtle cardamom ice cream and crystallised chocolate gets the seal of approval from the author's four-year-old niece. Picture: Stephanie Dalton
Evenfall’s silky-textured milk chocolate cremeux tart, paired with lemon myrtle cardamom ice cream and crystallised chocolate gets the seal of approval from the author's four-year-old niece. Picture: Stephanie Dalton

Dessert is silky-textured milk chocolate cremeux tart, paired with a unique but wonderfully fragrant lemon myrtle cardamom ice cream and crystallised chocolate.

Somehow, I also had room for a classic affogato made with Van Diemen’s Land ice cream, espresso, and a shot of Kahlua.

Safe to say, I left the restaurant very full and very satisfied.

Evenfall is a destination in its own right – to dine, drink, and admire the surroundings, it truly offers the chance to experience the true essence of Tasmania in every sip and every bite.

A glass of Bellebonne Bis – which is an award-winning a non-vintage sparkling rose. Picture: Stephanie Dalton
A glass of Bellebonne Bis – which is an award-winning a non-vintage sparkling rose. Picture: Stephanie Dalton

Evenfall Wines

2 Upper McEwans Rd

Legana

Opening hours:

Wed-Sun, 11am-5pm

On the menu

Two courses, $65; Three courses, $79.

Non-vintage Bellebonne Bis, Tamar Valley and Pipers River, $17; East Coast Pacific oysters served natural or with raspberry agrodolce, $32/52; add Bellebonne Bis, $8; crushed pink eye potatoes, $12; eye-fillet carpaccio; scallops in shell; King Island porterhouse; Tassie lamb rump; milk chocolate cremeux tart; and affogato with Van Diemen’s Land ice cream

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Original URL: https://www.themercury.com.au/lifestyle/food-wine/is-this-destination-dining-at-its-finest/news-story/d98589e6927af712130ec5ab774f8b31