Classic Hobart pub’s new owners deliver comfort on a plate
Hearty, classic pub meals at affordable prices make this well-known South Hobart establishment an easy choice for a great family night out, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
Don't miss out on the headlines from Food and Wine. Followed categories will be added to My News.
Open the newspaper or look at your phone these days, and the news is confronting – turmoil seems to be everywhere, and it’s tempting to quickly look away and go get my hands dirty in the garden instead. Which is why, when comfort is offered, I’ll take it. And that’s exactly what’s on offer at the Cascade Hotel.
South Hobart was once home to 12 pubs, but today, the Cascade is the only one remaining. It was established in 1846 and was the site of many community events, including inquests. There were no coroners in sight the night we ate there, but the dining room was full of players and supporters from the local soccer club, whose grounds are just the other side of the car park.
I had (naively) figured Sunday night would be pretty quiet, so hadn’t made a booking, but the place was packed and we ended up at a comfortable table in the main bar, rather than the dining room which has stunning sandstone walls and an open fire. The menu is full of comforting classics like schnitzels, parmies, rissoles and gravy and even lamb’s fry and bacon (bringing back some childhood memories!).
The grill menu is also extensive, with steaks named for some of the other pubs that used to populate the area including The Steam Hammer (formerly a notoriously rough joint, now a 400g scotch fillet topped with fried eggs ($52), The Greyhound (a well-respected establishment on the border of Sandy Bay, which closed not long after the proprietor was found “dead in bed” is now a 250g eye fillet stuffed with blue cheese ($49) and The Fortune of War (one of Tasmania’s oldest pubs and now a pork sirloin served with a cherry chilli jam ($32).
We begin with a serve of zucchini and corn fritters ($18), which aren’t the prettiest I’ve seen, but are certainly up there with the tastiest – not stodgy or doughy and plenty of fresh flavour from the sweet corn and zucchini.
There are three in a serving and these would make a great light lunch.
Our other starter is a plate of garlic prawns ($20.50). No ordinary prawns in garlic butter, this dish is “gamas al ajillo” – Spanish-style garlic prawns with lashings of garlic, olive oil, smoked paprika and a dash of sherry. They’re very more-ish and you can also order them as a main course with salad and fries.
While all the steaks sound great (until next time, Fortune of War!) I’m all about comfort tonight so opt for bangers and mash ($27.50), which is a satisfying plate of venison sausages from the King St Butcher paired with creamy mashed potato, plenty of gravy, caramelised onions and some vegies steamed to crisp-tender perfection. This is an excellent value meal for the price and the sausages are top quality.
My husband is also in the mood for comfort food and orders the roast of the day – today it’s lamb ($29.50 for a large serving, $26.50 for the vegan option). Three generous slices of roast lamb are topped with gravy, and served with pumpkin roasted to caramelisation, craggy salted potatoes and more of those expertly steamed vegetables.
There’s nothing tricky or complicated about this food and that’s exactly what we were looking for this evening – and so, it seems, were the other diners who are filling the pub with a happy hubbub.
The new owners took over in November and are keeping things in the family with one of their sons greeting diners at the front door, while another is in the kitchen, and there are plenty of kids running around the place throughout the evening. There’s definitely a family vibe here and the extensive and well-priced menu (including kids’ options) makes the Cascade Hotel a good choice for a multi-generational family meal.
Desserts keep up the classic theme and while I regretfully decline a sticky date pudding ($14), my husband says ‘yes, please’ to a strawberry ice cream sundae ($12) that is a fitting end to a meal that feels like a soft place to land.
CASCADE HOTEL
22 Cascade Rd, South Hobart
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs, 10am-9pm, Fri-Sat, 10am-10pm, Sun, 10am-8pm
On the menu:
Zucchini and corn fritters, $18; garlic prawns, $20.50; bangers and mash, $27; roast of the day, $29.50, ice cream sundae, $12