New Hobart bistro is perfect spot for your next French food fix

The latest addition to Hobart’s ‘so Frenchy’, ‘so chic’, line-up is serving up bistro classics in an atmosphere that positively hums with hospitality the moment you walk in the door, writes Alix Davis

New Hobart bistro WunderBar & Restaurant’s classy interior. Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

Je ne sais pas pourquoi, but there’s more than a hint of Paris on the streets of Hobart at the moment, with sleek and stylish bistros popping up all over town. The latest addition to the so Frenchy, so chic, line-up is WunderBar on the CBD fringe. Housed in a thoughtfully reimagined building designed by Preston Lane Architects, WunderBar is serving up bistro classics in an atmosphere that positively hums with hospitality the moment you walk in the door.

We arrived for Friday night dinner, just a few days after their official opening, and the joint was jumping. Low-lighting kept things sophisticated, and while most tables were host to couples, there were a couple of groups of four and a single or two on the window-facing bar table. Drinks were provided in a flash, and we then had time to peruse the menu, which put me in a quandary as I wanted to try everything.

Wunderbar's Huitre Mignionette (oysters). Picture: Beetle Black Media.

The profiterole with chicken liver pate ($18) is a wonderfully light choux pastry bun, that’s more eclair than profiterole and is generously portioned enough for two. Velvety smooth pate is topped with sliced grapes and a fig mustard that adds just a little kick. The fact that it’s served in a bun means there’s no squabbling over slices of bread or crackers.

For entree, I order a classic cheese souffle ($20) that’s spiked with goats curd and Gruyere. This cloud of cheesy goodness comes topped with jam and finely chopped dill and each mouthful is a celebration of classic French fare. My husband can’t resist French onion soup ($16), which arrives as a steaming bowl of caramelised onions with characteristic beef broth and plenty of cheese-topped croutons. It wouldn’t be a French bistro without steak tartare and here your choices are wallaby or beetroot (both $22), served with classic condiments and crisps. For an extra protein hit, add roasted bone marrow for $10.

Wunderbar's Canard a l'orange (duck a l’orange). Picture: Beetle Black Media

Much as he would have loved to order the steak frites ($50 for a porterhouse with Bordelaise sauce and chips), my husband is very happy with his beef bourguignon ($42). This generous serving includes two fall-apart beef cheeks, a variety of root vegetables and pearl onions, all wallowing in a richly flavoured sauce. Despite the fact that this is a meal in itself, we had gone ahead and ordered all the sides as well. We have no regrets. Roasted potatoes ($10) are slightly smashed and craggy, while a ratatouille ($18) is a neat cocotte of roasted eggplant and tomato topped with thinly sliced zucchini. The seasonal vegetable ($10) this evening is brussels sprouts (#winning!) and they’re served charred and dotted with goats curd.

Wunderbar's Feuilles de saison (seasonal greens). Picture: Beetle Black Media

Front of house at WunderBar is managed by hospitality veteran Mateo Ortiz and nothing goes unnoticed as he manages a team of waitstaff who are friendly and efficient. In the kitchen is chef/owner Julian Volkmer, who honed his skills in Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe before landing in Hobart in 2016. He spent six years at Mona and is now turning out beautifully executed French classics.

Wunderbar's pumpkin gnocchi Parisienne based on the French take of this beloved classic. Picture: Supplied by WunderBar & Restaurant

Wunderbar's stuffed croissant (Caesar). Picture: Supplied by WunderBar & Restaurant

In addition to dinner on Friday and Saturday nights, WunderBar offers breakfast and lunch seven days a week. While I’ve not yet eaten earlier in the day, there’s plenty on the menu to tempt me – a croque monsieur with Champagne ham and truffle bechamel ($22), baked eggs with ratatouille and gruyere ($18) or gnocchi Parisienne ($33) with hazelnut butter.

Canard a l’orange ($40) is a bistro mainstay I can’t go past – this classic duck dish includes a sauteed breast, served rare, and roasted leg that’s been shredded. A neat spoonful of pumpkin is drizzled with an orange caramel that ties it all together. Along with my share of those sides and the convivial buzz, it’s all making for a very pleasant evening.

A selection of WunderBar’s cocktails – including the Pain au Chocolat Old Fashioned, French’Cello Spritz and Little Myrtilllr. Picture: Beetle Black Media.

Wunderbar's Petite Grenouille cocktail (also available in non-alcoholic). These drinks feature locally foraged ingredients and housemade ferments that are the perfect companion for your dinner. Picture: Supplied by WonderBar & Restaurant

Don’t worry, we haven’t forgotten dessert! A scoop of decadently rich chocolate mousse ($15) could only be more French if it was spooned from the serving bowl at the table, while my husband’s creme brulee ($15) has a pleasingly toffeed top and a creamy, vanilla-scented body. Should you visit WunderBar if you’re craving French classics? Mais oui, bien sur!

WunderBar front-of-house manager Mateo Ortiz, right, and chef/owner Julian Volkmer at their new classy eatery on the fringe of Hobart’s CBD Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

WUNDERBAR

45 Goulburn St, Hobart

Opening hours: Breakfast and lunch 7 days, dinner Fri-Sat

On the menu

Profiterole with chicken liver pate, $18; cheese souffle, $20; soupe a l’oignon, $16; beef bourguignon, $42; canard a l’orange, $40; mousse au chocolat, $15