Tassie institution Mures carves up a stunning ceremonial feast

Four-course, hook-to-plate dinner is a toast to sustainable fishing and winemaking, as well as our Tasmanian way of life – all to coincide with a celebration of the Off Season – writes Alix Davis

So, you think you’ve been to a seafood restaurant before? I very much doubt it was an experience like this.

In a private room for just 20 guests, a large screen plays video footage of huge, rolling swells, due south of our wild island and far from the comforts of home. We hear the call of seabirds and see a fishing rod line flinch, then tighten as a fish takes the bait.

The catch is made, the atmospheric music falls away, and there’s an air of respect and reverence as it enters the room, borne on a timber slab carried by two burly men. They place it carefully on the table and step aside, revealing the glistening, 107kg southern bluefin tuna that is the centrepiece of tonight’s meal.

Jock Mure, the third generation of this much-loved family business, caught this tuna in waters off North Bruny and tonight will be carving it in front of us before chefs prepare a four-course meal showcasing this stunning fish.

Jock Mure carves up an 80kg Southern bluefin tuna, at Mures Upper Deck, to prepare the fish for a special four-course degustation dinner. Picture: Samuel Shelley/Mures Tasmania

As he wields a razor-sharp filleting knife, deftly removing the massive head first, Jock talks about the family’s approach to sustainable fishing, the care taken with their catch and the family’s history in Hobart fishing and hospitality.

Once he’s removed two enormous fillets, sweating slightly as this process usually takes place in a cool room, rather than a restaurant, Jock takes a spoon and literally scrapes pieces of tuna off the bone, which are then served to us on seaweed crackers. The meat is richly hued and melts like butter in my mouth. Being so close to the creature it came from certainly adds an extra element to the experience, and I quietly say a word of thanks to the tuna.

A course of sashimi features meat from the back, belly and inner belly – each has its own distinctive colour and texture, and it’s delicious. Lightly pickled daikon, white soy sauce and Tasmanian wasabi complete the dish, which is a masterpiece of simplicity in which the main ingredient is allowed to shine.

The first course of Mures’ Southern bluefin four-course degustation meal, is a canape featuring tuna direct from the frame, on nori seaweed. Picture: Samuel Shelley

The second entree in the Southern bluefin dinner is three cuts of sashimi including from the tuna’s back, belly and inner-belly with pickled daikon, white soy and shima wasabi. Picture: Samuel Shelley.

To accompany each course, we have matched drinks from Pooley Wines, with third-generation family member and brand ambassador Matt Pooley on hand to introduce each wine as it’s poured. A glass of 2021 Sparkling Matilda is served on arrival, and Matt’s explanation of the wine really brings it to life. Throughout the evening, both Matt and Jock visit each table, allowing you to ask questions of – or just chat with – these experts in their fields.

The second course of the special Southern Bluefin dinner features a tataki tuna fillet, with a black and white sesame crust, cauliflower puree, ginger pickled apple and radish. Picture: Samuel Shelley

The third course of the Southern Bluefin dinner is a tuna steak that’s grilled medium-rare and topped with capsicum, tomato, capers piperade and served with thrice-cooked potatoes. Picture: Samuel Shelley

Our second course of tataki features a fillet that has been lightly seared and rolled in black and white sesame seeds. It is served with a pickled apple and a delicate citrus salad. The fish is so tender that it barely needs cutting and each mouthful is a delight.

The tuna carving ceremony ($190 per person) is part of Mures’ Off Season offering and takes place on the first Tuesday of the winter months. It’s an impressive display of dining and winemaking and feels uniquely Tasmanian.

The restaurant’s recent moody refurbishment adds to the sophistication of the event, which is certainly not your standard seafood dinner. Jock has worked in every aspect of the business since he was 14 and now manages the processing plant at Cambridge, although he’s obviously still a dab hand with a rod. This tuna was caught from his 7m tinny, Selkie, and my husband asks why he doesn’t have a bigger boat.

A cheese plate which features hot-smoked tuna dip, Coal River blue and triple cream brie, figs, muscatel and lavosh, was an elegant end to the unique dining experience. Picture: Samuel Shelley

While the business does have a 23m fishing trawler, Diana, Jock tells us that if he had a bigger boat he’d have to catch more fish and that’s not what he’s really about.

The main course is a meaty tuna steak, served medium-rare and again, wonderfully tender.

Craggy roasted potatoes don’t last long and a side of Basque piperade containing capers, tomato and capsicum is a flavourful accompaniment.

A glass of 2023 pinot noir, redolent with red fruit flavours has been perfectly paired by Matt.

I’m never unhappy about a cheese plate, and our final course features cheese from Coal River Farm, along with earthy muscatels, sliced figs and lavosh.

Naturally, there’s a tuna element – this time it features as a hot-smoked tuna dip that Jock says is one of his favourites. It’s not my usual finish to a meal, but I’m not at all unhappy about it.

My advice? Don’t miss this unique experience that celebrates sustainable fishing and winemaking as well as our Tasmanian way of life.

Mures Upper Deck restaurant which has recently undergone a sophisticated, moody refurbishment. Picture: Courtesy of Mures Tasmania.

MURES

Victoria Dock, Davey St, Hobart

Southern Bluefin Tuna Carving Ceremony

June 3, July 1, Aug 5, from 6pm

Tickets available at www.mures.com.au

On the menu:

Sashimi with daikon and wasabi, tataki with cauliflower cream, tuna steak with piperade, cheese platter with hot-smoked tuna dip.