New Hobart eatery serves up a nice slice of la dolce vita
While I can’t get to the Mediterranean week, I can do the next best thing, and enjoy lunch at newly opened Novellino, where they’re dishing up some Italian classics, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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There are few things nicer in life than enjoying a long lunch on the Italian coast. The Italian coastline stretches over about 7500km, so there’s plenty to choose from – the low-lying sandy beaches of Puglia to the clifftops of the Amalfi Coast. The island of Sicily alone has 1400km of coast and, while I can’t get there this week, I can do the next best thing – enjoy lunch at newly opened Novellino, where Sicilian chef Salvatore Albinelli dishes up Italian classics.
The distinctive building, on the corner of Barrack and Macquarie streets, has been given a new lease on life with rich green walls and comfortable seating in the 20-seat dining room. It’s only been open a few weeks – but Novellino is already proving so popular with locals and nearby workers – that we couldn’t get a seat the first time we visited. And yet, she persisted, and we made ourselves comfortable a day or two later.
We begin with a selection of snacks, or ‘spuntini’ and are not disappointed. Plump arancini ($15 for 3) have a golden exterior and a creamy interior of risotto rice studded with pumpkin, zucchini and parmesan cheese, served on a fresh tomato sauce. Arancini have a history rooted in 10th-century Sicily, coinciding with Arab rule on the island (which lasted from 827AD-1061AD). They are believed to have originated as a way for traders to transport meals, especially during long journeys on horseback. The dish is also linked to the Feast of Saint Lucy in Palermo, Syracuse, and Trapani, where arancini are traditionally served on December 13th.
Caprese salad ($18) is another classic coastal dish, having originated on the island of Capri in the 1920s or 30s by a patriotic bricklayer. Here, it’s served with a side of thinly sliced prosciutto, a mound of darkly caramelised onions and slices of squidgy focaccia. If I was eating alone, this would be a perfect light lunch. Everything is wonderfully fresh and the flavours are truly transportative. Filettino di maiale alla paprika ($16) is a plate of sliced roast pork fillet dusted with smoked paprika and served on a bed of rocket. Paprika is not common in Italian cooking (it’s known as the national spice of Hungary), but made its way to Sicily in the 16th century via Spain and Portugal after being introduced to Europe by Christopher Columbus.
Novellini is owned and operated by Salvatore and his wife Melissa. With an extensive background in hospitality (you may remember his enthusiastic greetings during his time as manager of the Port Cygnet Cannery), Salvatore is bringing la dolce vita to this end of town.
In addition to the dining room, there’s also a takeaway area where you can purchase freshly baked cakes and biscuits, fat wedges of frittata and well-stuffed focaccia sandwiches. And of course, there’s coffee – supplied by local roaster Beansmith, in Cygnet.
We continue our coastal Italian lunch with a serve of lasagna ($22), a favourite around the world. This version is no exception – layers of pasta are interwoven with a rich ragu and topped with bechamel, the tomato sauce is fresh and thick with cherry tomatoes.
Our other main is the gnocchetti del giorno ($26) and today’s housemade potato gnocchi is served with a lusciously rich four-cheese sauce with caramelised pears and walnuts. It’s like a decadent cheese plate in a bowl and is absolutely wonderful – a perfect summation of autumn and warming on these cooler days.
A rocket side salad ($15) is beautifully fresh – with none of the limp leaves I’ve found in some other salads recently.
Sadly the Sicilian cheesecake is sold out, but we soothe ourselves with a piece of orange cake with a dollop of mascarpone ($10). Sicily is known for the quality of its oranges – especially those grown in the rich volcanic soils at the base of Mt Etna. This cake is light and full of sunshine – it doesn’t take much for me to imagine that I am living la dolce vita.
NOVELLINO
12 Barrack St, Hobart
Opening hours: Mon - Fri, 7.30am - 4.30pm
ON THE MENU
Arancini, $15; More than Caprese salad, $18; pork fillet with paprika, $16; lasagna, $22; Gnocchetti del giorno, $26; orange cake with mascarpone, $10
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