Dining at this North Hobart Greek restaurant is like being wrapped up in a big warm hug
This NoHo Greek eatery is not super fancy, but it oozes hospitality from every pore and that goes a long way towards a good night out in my book, writes Alix Davis.
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Running a restaurant is a tough business. But offering guests basic hospitality shouldn’t be difficult – a greeting and a few words about ordering is always a good start. So, it was with relief that we wandered into Filoxenia to a warm welcome after walking out of another establishment in North Hobart’s restaurant strip where those basics were in short supply.
“Filoxenia” literally translates to “friend to a stranger” and is a concept that is at the core of Greek culture. It is in abundant supply at this family-run restaurant where we are greeted with a big smile by owner Nikos Gonianakis and promptly supplied with drinks and menus by daughter Sofia.
Nikos and his family – wife Yanna heads up the kitchen and their other daughter Kallia also works here – moved to Hobart from Heraklion in Crete almost 10 years ago. Greece was in an economic crisis at the time and Nikos wanted to provide his daughters with a brighter future.
Nikos tells us that the people of Crete have a special feeling towards Australia as a result of Anzac efforts during World War II. And a cousin of his father’s lived in Hobart, so, it was here, 15,000km from Heraklion, that they landed.
The menu is full of classic Greek favourites – moussaka, soutzoukakia (large meatballs in a
tomato sauce) and psito (oven-baked lamb) and it’s very much family-style cooking rather than fine dining, which was exactly what we needed.
There’s a big group of work colleagues at one table, a family group celebrating a birthday at another and Greek music playing in the background. I may not be at a waterfront restaurant in Crete, but if I close my eyes, it’s not too hard to imagine.
We begin with cheese saganaki ($10.90), two crumbed and fried slabs of kefalograviera, a firm Greek cheese. With a squeeze of lemon, it’s hot, melted cheese heaven. The name of this dish is derived from the Turkish word for the copper pan in which it’s traditionally cooked.
There are many Greek dishes I love, but I can’t go past a classic mixed grill ($38.90) and this one has all the elements – a pork skewer kebab and lamb chop, a beef patty a Loukaniko pork sausage and some chicken. It’s satisfyingly garlicky and there’s a pot of tzatziki to the side to soothe it all. Chargrilled pita bread is ideal for mopping up any juices and the handful of chips is not too many and not too few.
Gemista ($33.90) is another classic dish – capsicum and zucchini are hollowed out and then stuffed with rice before being baked. The resulting dish is comforting, and the red capsicum – baked until it’s meltingly soft – is especially delicious.
Every Greek family and region has their own version of this simple dish, with the rice-based stuffing changing with additions like pine nuts, raisins or minced meat.
Greek desserts are always a highlight, with many variations on filo pastry and sweet syrup. One of my husband’s favourite desserts is galaktoboureko – a Greek custard slice – so it’s a no-brainer tonight. Sofia tells us that her mother’s version ($10.90) is a little different – “more like a fat spring roll” than the layers you usually see. It’s delicate and warm with layers of filo enveloping creamy custard.
It’s served with a scoop of Neapolitan ice cream and drizzle of chocolate sauce and my husband is as happy as a kid with a bowl of Neapolitan ice cream and a drizzle of chocolate sauce.
I opt for loukoumades ($9.80) – yeasted doughnut balls that are served in a platter of honey syrup and dusted with cinnamon and sesame seeds. They’re dense and perfect for swiping up the syrup. I love that syrup-soaked dumplings similar to these can be found across the eastern Mediterranean and Middle East – luqaimat and gulab jamun are just two examples.
Spending an evening at Filoxenia is like being embraced in a warm hug while being fed comfort food cooked by a Greek mother (because it is!). It’s not fancy, but it oozes hospitality from every pore and that goes a long way towards a good night out in my book.
FILOXENIA
322 Elizabeth St, North Hobart
Opening hours: Tues-Sat, 12-3pm and 5.30pm-late
On the menu
Cheese saganaki, $10.90; Gemista, $33.90; Mixed grill plate, $38.90;
Galaktoboureko, $10.90; Loukoumades, $9.80
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