Spencer’s is the Lindisfarne eatery locals love, creating a buzz with a mouth-watering brunch menu

The happy buzz of contented diners is always good to hear. Spencer’s knows their business and they do it well – you won’t be disappointed at this neighbourhood favourite, writes Alix Davis.

Okonomiyaki at Spencers in Lindisfarne. Picture: Linda Higginson

I don’t generally eat breakfast (unless there’s a Pigeon Whole Bakers croissant involved), so by the time lunch rolls around I’m usually pretty hungry. Which is a good thing if you’re heading to Spencer’s in Lindisfarne as there’s plenty to choose from and the servings are generous. Stars have aligned.

The dining area is spacious and, as we’re on the early side of lunch, we have our pick of tables.

The spacious interior at Spencer’s in Lindisfarne. Picture: Linda Higginson

Water and menus are provided promptly and the staff move swiftly and efficiently as the room begins to fill with small and large groups and the conversational buzz increases.

There’s an all-day menu as well as items available from 11am and there’s certainly something to suit every taste and appetite. If you’re a “dessert for breakfast” type, dive into the lemon meringue waffles ($22), which are topped with lemon curd, torched meringue and a blueberry compote. Brunch purists might prefer the classic eggs benedict ($22) or a bacon and egg roll on a brioche bun ($15).

Rosti Salad at Spencers in Lindisfarne. Picture: Linda Higginson

There are also a few specials on offer and we order the Korean fried cauliflower ($22) – which arrives as a generous portion of battered and fried cauliflower florets topped in a rich and spicy hot sauce.

Fluffy white rice and a creamy avocado half to the side provide a soothing counterpoint if the (mild) heat is too much.

An okonomiyaki ($24) topped with a pile of sesame marinated mushrooms, a mound of crisp bean sprouts, sharp green onion and perfectly ripe avocado slices is a light but filling brunch or lunch option, with the poached egg on top adding a protein punch.

Okonomiyaki topped with a pile of sesame marinated mushrooms, crisp bean sprouts, green onion and avocado slices and a poached egg – a light but filling brunch or lunch option at Spencer’s. Picture: Linda Higginson

There’s a lot of chatter online about which is the best mayonnaise and why is it Kewpie, and that’s definitely the mayo of choice for these Japanese pancakes.

Finely shredded cabbage forms the base of this Japanese pancake, that’s a popular street food, originally from Osaka. It can contain a variety of ingredients, and this vegetarian version is delicious. I’d probably prefer the mushrooms sauteed, but that’s a personal preference and certainly doesn’t stop me from enjoying every mouthful.

Opened by hospitality veteran Carly Martin six years ago, Spencer’s has recently been passed into the capable hands of head chef Phil Coombe and his partner Ben Anderson.

In addition to continuing the food and service that appreciative locals have come to love, the pair are adding some dinner events to the menu.

Spencer's Cafe new owners Ben Anderson (left) and Phil Coombe (right) with former owner Carly Martin at Lindisfarne. Picture: Chris Kidd

I’m an enthusiastic carnivore, but today we’ve gone plant forward with our menu choices and I’m not at all unhappy about it.

Every plate is brimming with bright, fresh ingredients and bursting with flavour and texture. Meals are well priced and the service is friendly and efficient.

There’s a cake counter full of sweet selections and, if I hadn’t just eaten a lunch and a half, I’d be indulging in one of those as well.

Takeaway coffee at Spencer’s. Picture: Linda Higginson

Our final dish today is the rosti salad ($22), which consists of two crisp-tender shredded potato cakes. No thin and limp hashbrowns here – these chunky rosti have some substance to them and are served on a bed of roasted pumpkin hummus.

They’re topped with a big handful of salad and a tangy feta dressing. Each mouthful is a pleasing blend of carby goodness and leafy greens – giving me a healthy blast not dissimilar to a brisk hike through a forest.

The room has filled while we’ve been eating and the clatter of crockery and the happy buzz of contented diners is always good to hear. Spencer’s knows their business and they do it well – you’re not going to be disappointed with a visit to this neighbourhood favourite.

SPENCER’S

145A East Derwent Hwy, Lindisfarne

Opening hours: 7.30am - 4pm, 7 days (takeaway from 7am)

ON THE MENU

Rosti salad, $22; okonomiyaki, $24, Korean fried cauliflower, $22