Tasmanian bubbles and canapes with a view of the mountain, it doesn’t get much better than this
If you’re celebrating, entertaining, or just wanting to treat yourself, there isn’t a better way to do it than to indulge in this perfect pairing of Tassie bubbles and canapes, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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Never let it be said that I don’t work hard for my readers. Whether it’s consuming a pie AND a sausage roll for lunch or eating dessert even when my dessert stomach is full, I am 100 per cent committed to eating and drinking my way through Hobart and beyond for you. And so I found myself fireside at MACq01’s Story Bar one recent afternoon with four glasses of fine sparkling wine in front of me, yet again going above and beyond. I know. Selfless.
I can think of few better ways to spend a late afternoon or early evening than relaxed in a velvet armchair, with a view of the mountain and the Derwent, with a glass or four of Arras sparkling. When each of those glasses are a different vintage and paired with a perfectly matched canape? Well then, even better. This collaboration between the award-winning Arras and MACq01 was originally intended to be a short-lived special but has proved so popular with visitors and locals alike that it has been extended until December and I can see why.
From the custom-made Tasmanian sassafras boards to the canapes showcasing Tasmanian produce to the sparkling wine that is Australia’s most awarded, this delightful interlude is a wonderful precursor to dinner or a special event in its own right. Once we’re seated, a staff member presents us each with a board holding four perfectly formed canapes, these are then paired with a glass of House of Arras – the NV Blanc de Blancs, the NV Brut Elite Cuvee No. 1701, the 2014 Grand Rose and the 2009 Grand Vintage. In addition to the tasting notes provided, our server explains each wine and canape in a way that is both knowledgeable and approachable and then leaves us to enjoy at our leisure.
Our first glass, the Blanc de Blancs, has been aged a minimum of 30 months and is made up of 90 per cent chardonnay grapes. The delicate beading is a sign of its quality and it’s an easy drinking wine. This is paired with a delicate black sesame crisp topped with Tasmanian crayfish and spanner crab bound with tart yuzu aioli with the crunch of radish and apple. It’s a wonderfully textural bite that works beautifully with the very slight hint of salt in the wine.
The NV Brut Elite is a delicate golden colour so I’m surprised to hear that it’s made of mostly red wine grapes. The palate is “red fruit-driven with complex flavours, fine minerality and a complex texture.” I’m no wine expert, but I know what I like and this is matched well with a buckwheat blini crowned with Meander Valley creme fraiche, chives, dill and sustainable caviar. The salty pop of each caviar bead is a delight, and as delicate as the beading rising through each glass.
Winemaker Ed Carr began his journey with House of Arras and Australian sparkling wine in 1988 and is responsible for positioning us on the world stage. All his wines are made using the traditional French method and are fermented, aged for a minimum of two years and disgorged in the bottle it is presented in.
Carr is Australia’s most awarded winemaker and blends grapes from vineyards in six areas of Tasmania to create his much sought-after wines. The vintages we are served today are in such limited supply that they are rarely seen on wine lists and our server encourages me to snap up any bottles I come across.
Our third glass, the 2014 Grand Rose is composed of 75 per cent pinot noir and, while it’s slightly darker than the first two glasses, it’s certainly not a pink fizz. Not that I’m complaining. Our server describes this as having an almost Turkish delight, but to my palate it’s still quite dry – although perhaps not when compared directly with the 2009 Grand Vintage which is so wonderfully dry as to be almost savoury. This dryness is the perfect foil for a rich, three-cheese arancini containing Ashgrove cheddar, Red Cow Dairy gruyere and Italian taleggio.
Yes, it’s a decadent way to spend an afternoon but if you’re celebrating something special, entertaining visitors, or just wanting to treat yourself, I can’t think of a better way to do it. The view, the setting and this world-class Tasmanian wine and food are definitely worth making time for. Challenge accepted.
ARRAS IN THE CITY
The Story Bar, MACq01,Hunter St, Hobart
Opening hours: 3-6pm, seven days
On the menu
A flight of four Arras sparkling wines plus four matched canapes, $95
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