Hunter Valley’s Margan wines battles Mother Nature to produce innovative barbera, albarino and tempranillo
One of Australia’s most distinguished winemakers faced a trifecta of calamities in a battle that challenged his resolve and put 25 years of work on the line.
First there was a fire, then a global pandemic, then the biggest flood anyone had ever seen. It all happened in little more than two years and the impact on one of Australia’s most distinguished winemakers has been traumatic.
Over the course of their married life, Andrew and Lisa Margan built from scratch a Hunter Valley business that boasts a five-star winery, 100ha of sustainably farmed vineyards, a hatted restaurant and an award-winning cellar door.
In a nod to triumph over adversity, The Australian Wine Club this week presents a superb line up of Margan wines that are not only of premium quality but convey a distinct sense of place, a uniqueness that runs as deep as the 200 million-year-old volcanic soil of the Hunter’s Fordwich Sill that sustains the family’s vines.
Our club president James Halliday has awarded Margan Wines five stars every year since 2009, saying, “The industry and the public are in love with Andrew Margan’s ‘a little bit different’ wines.”
The past few years have tested the Margans, who have confronted a series of unpredictable calamities beginning with an ill-considered backburn by fire authorities during the 2019-20 summer bushfires that ruined most of their 2020 vintage through smoke taint.
The curse of Covid followed, shutting down the restaurant trade and putting a hole in their revenues. The third blow came this July when the Margans found their vineyards in the Broke-Fordwich subregion covered in the highest floodwaters since white settlement, 1.5m above the previous record. Thankfully the floodwaters didn’t affect the vines, as they were dormant, but the Margans lost most of their livestock and fences, with the damages bill running into the hundreds of thousands of dollars – most of which won’t be covered by the insurers.
Andrew isn’t the sort to seek sympathy – he’s seen almost everything working 49 vintages around the world – but he admits the setbacks left him reeling. “I was diagnosed as having post-traumatic stress syndrome and I’ve had counselling,’’ he says. “When you are so closely connected to something, when you lose it, you can be affected badly. You’ve got to be stoic and strong but it’s not always that easy.”
But for a fellow who wanted to be a winemaker since he “jumped the fence at Tyrrells” when he was 12, the hope of the next vintage still sets the pulse racing, as well as the excitement of his customers.
“It’s a wonderful thing to be able to grow your own grapes and turn them into something that people are so passionate about – it’s a gift. That’s what keeps you going,’’ he says.
Andrew and Lisa, who is a chef and helms their highly praised restaurant, are keenly focused on sustainable practices.
With an eye on the changing climate, Andrew has led the way introducing Spanish and Italian varieties to the Hunter, focusing on grapes that retain high natural acid while ripening in hot conditions, enabling fresh fruit-driven wines to be made with only modest alcohol levels.
Two of the couple’s three children now work in the business after completing university studies, ensuring the Margan name will continue to stand for innovative, high-quality sustainable produce – even when Mother Nature takes a wild turn.
Margan Ceres Hill Hunter Valley Albarino 2022
Andrew planted the first albarino in the Hunter in 2014 and such has been its success, he’s planting more. The Spanish varietal’s ability to retain high levels of natural acid while ripening shines through. Peach, grapefruit and white flowers on the nose; clean minerally palate. Will age for 10 years. Freshly caught snapper, lime and salty chips come to mind. 12.5% alc; RRP $40 a bottle.
SPECIALS $36.99 a bottle in any dozen; $32.99 in Margan mix
Margan Broke Fordwich Hunter Valley Semillon 2022
From vines planted in the 1970s on volcanic soils which Andrew believes help produce richer, softer semillon with more palate weight in its youth. Lemongrass, lemon curd and lime peel on the nose, with zesty citrus driving the palate to a long finish. Will delight semillon fans. The Margans recommend Kingfish sashimi and coriander, finger lime and preserved lemon. 12% alc; RRP $35 a bottle.
SPECIALS $29.99 a bottle in any dozen; $32.99 in Margan mix
Margan Fordwich Hill Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2022
Lovely bright expression of old vine Hunter chardonnay. Whole bunch pressed, taking only free run and light solids into concrete and large format French oak. Citrus, cashews and creaminess from partial malolactic fermentation. 13.5% alc; RRP $40 a bottle.
SPECIALS $37.99 a bottle in any dozen; $32.99 in Margan mix
Margan Fordwich Hill Hunter Valley Shiraz 2019
Classical elegant Hunter shiraz, crafted from 50-year-old vines. Plums and violets on the nose, with touches of lavender and licorice. Savoury nuances mingle with juicy fruits on the palate, framed by smooth tannins. 93 points from Team Halliday. Excellent value in the Margan mix. 13.5% alc; RRP $50 a bottle.
Margan Ceres Hill Hunter Valley Barbera 2021
The first and only barbera planted in the Hunter. Has become the biggest seller at cellar door. Rhubarb, cherry and spice on the nose, typical of this Italian varietal. Bright red fruits and savoury spice on the palate, enlivened with a crunchy acidity. Partners with tomato-based dishes and lamb. Medium bodied. 13.5% alc; RRP $40 a bottle.
SPECIALS $36.99 a bottle in any dozen; $32.99 in Margan mix
Margan Timbervines Hunter Valley Tempranillo Graciano Shiraz 2021
Another step on the pioneering path, this is a field blend with the three varieties vinified together each year. There’s a lovely plushness, with forest berries, violets and dark chocolate notes singing together. Soft tannins and that trademark refreshing acidity in place. A revelation. 13.5% alc; RRP $40 a bottle.
SPECIALS $36.99 a bottle in any dozen; $32.99 in Margan mix
MARGAN MIXTwo bottles of each wine above for $32.99 a bottle.
DOZEN DEALSStraight red and straight white mixed dozens also available.
Order online or telephone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.
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