High-flying chardonnay from Eden Valley, Margaret River, the Adelaide Hills and Hunter Valley

The custodians of one of Australia’s oldest cool-climate vineyards are taking their premium chardonnay to new heights, as wine drinkers re-discover their love for the queen of grapes.

These chardonnays are ‘nicely poised to enhance your summer fun’.

“We’re a bit chardy crazy up here,’’ Mountadam winemaker Caitlin Brown jokes, from her perch in the high country of Eden Valley.

It’s hard not to get a little obsessed about the queen of grape varieties when one of Australia’s oldest cool climate chardonnay vineyards is a treasured piece of your domain.

The custodians of Mountadam – Caitlin and her winemaking predecessors – have been taking its chardonnay seriously since legendary wine entrepreneur David Wynn planted the first estate grapes in 1972, believing the high-altitude site was capable of producing cool-climate wines of elegance and structure.

The superb Mountadam High Eden Chardonnay 2019 leads The Australian Wine Club’s final chardonnay special offer of 2022, with our line-up featuring high quality wines from Margaret River, Hunter Valley and the Adelaide Hills, as well as Eden Valley.

I’ve discovered over the past two years of writing this weekly column that our chardonnay offers are consistently the biggest sellers – so if you’ve been under the misguided impression that chardonnay is out of fashion, you better join those in the know and jump on board.

The best Australian chardonnays show a lovely balance between fruit richness, acid freshness and oak-derived characters. The style spectrum will change from wine to wine – with some winemakers favouring more oak influence than others but the key is keeping everything in balance.

At Mountadam, Caitlin admits she gets “pretty excited” about integrating different types of oak with the pristine chardonnay fruit grown in the High Eden vineyard, which sits between 550m and 580m above sea level at the highest point in Eden Valley.

“It’s fruit purity that makes our wine special but I do have an interest in using different types of oak – whether it be larger format, some older oak – to develop textural layers,” she said. “Over the years, chardonnay has probably become our main wine at Mountadam so I’m respectful of our style and try to be fairly consistent.”

Caitlin spent her teenage years at Mountadam after her parents, Limestone Coast graziers and grape growers David and Jenni Brown, acquired the winery from Möet Hennessy Wine Estates in 2000.

Her return as winemaker came after she experienced vintages at Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River, Sidewood Estate in the Adelaide Hills and at Killian Hunn Baden in Germany and worked as assistant winemaker at Hardys Tintara in McLaren Vale.

“Coming back to Mountadam has been special as it’s a pretty unique place and such a beautiful property,’’ she says.

“When the vineyards were first planted, David Wynn had that dream of making Burgundian-style chardonnay and we’re fortunate to have those very special vines that are now 50 years old.”

The chardonnays below are all nicely poised to enhance your summer fun. They vary in style and express regional flavours and characters but all have that key ingredient of balance.

Mountadam Vineyards High Eden Estate Chardonnay 2019

Respected wine critic Tyson Stelzer believes the 2019 High Eden will “set this vintage among the greats from this historic estate”. Bright citrus, white peach, nectarine, vanilla coconut characters slide seamlessly together in a triumph of fruit purity, minerality and oak integration. Fermented in 60 per cent new French oak and seasoned barriques, with partial malolactic fermentation bringing a creaminess to the palate that stretches out to a long refreshing finish. Complex and charismatic. An utter bargain in this chardonnay deal. 14.3% alc; $RRP $40 a bottle.

SPECIALS $28.99 a bottle in any dozen; $22.99 a bottle in chardonnay dozen

Byron & Harold Rags to Riches Margaret River Chardonnay 2021

This Margaret River star is the brainchild of Paul Byron and Ralph (Harold) Dunning who together have more than 65 years of experience in the Australian wine trade. Bryan & Harold was launched in 2012 and scored a 5-star rating from James Halliday when named as one of his top 10 “new wineries” in 2015. Attractive aromas of peach, citrus and a touch of almond lead to complex flavours of lemon curd, stone fruit and nougat with toasty oak influences in the background. Super fine, elegant structure in the style of a good Chablis. (A wine-loving friend of mine says this wine walks like a French woman but talks like an Antipodean goddess – but I’m not sure I fully understand!). Superb value. 12.2% alc; RRP $32 a bottle.

SPECIALS $21.99 a bottle in any dozen; $22.99 a bottle in chardonnay dozen

Dalwood Estate Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2021

 

From a historic vineyard on the banks of the Hunter River, widely regarded as the birthplace of Hunter Valley wine. The 2021 lures you in with aromas of stonefruit and Chinese five spice. Peach, melon and citrus flavours wash across the palate, with supporting touches of cashew and almond meal. Grapefruit-like acidity leaves a fresh finish. Another great vintage from an iconic site. 95 points from James Halliday. 12.5% alc; RRP $35 a bottle.

SPECIALS $27.99 in any dozen; $22.99 in chardonnay dozen

Zonte’s Footstep Dusk Til Dawn Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2021

Bursting with summer goodness: aromas of lime zest and coconut with a hint of almond and vanilla, with flavours of honeydew melon, yellow peach, lemon, coconut and vanilla bean. Nice tang of acid on the palate, with a subtle nutty texture from seven months maturation in seasoned oak barriques. Tangy acidity drives the wine home. Barbecued bugs, with garlic and butter always a grand chardonnay partner. 13% alc; RRP $35 a bottle.

SPECIALS $27.99 in any dozen; $22.99 in chardonnay dozen

CHARDONNAY SPECIAL Three bottles of each wine above for $22.99 a bottle. SAVE $150 a dozen.

Order online or telephone [phone] Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.