NewsBite

d’Arenberg McLaren Vale classics showcase Coppermine Road cabernet, Thunderstep shiraz and Custodian grenache

Legendary McLaren Vale winery delivers showcase reds as dazzling as the winemaker’s eccentricity.

The d’Arenberg ‘formula’ continues to win global praise.
The d’Arenberg ‘formula’ continues to win global praise.

The creative force behind one of McLaren Vale’s greatest wineries loves loud shirts and loud wines.

Chester Osborn is the winemaking wizard who has fuelled d’Arenberg’s remarkable ascent over the past 38 years.

His northern star sits high in the sky, guiding a lofty ambition. “I aim to make the loudest, most aromatic, fruit-flavoured wines that have great palate texture and are free of obvious oak,’’ he says. “I look for tannins that are long, lively, gritty and youthful, with fragrant fruit minerality.’’

The Australian Wine Club salutes d’Arenberg this week, with a collection of wines that are as dazzling as their maker’s eccentricity. These are wines that are simply beautiful to drink now – but carry the promise of more to come with careful cellaring.

We’re offering an iconic cabernet from d’Arenberg’s best cabernet vineyard; a shiraz with the name and power of a stallion and an old vine grenache that must be one of the best value reds in Australia. And if you love chardonnay, we have a 15-bottle deal that will bring summer to your door (without a freight charge, of course!).

For all of Chester’s new-world artistic flair – has anyone else ever constructed a five-storey cube in a vineyard comprising “a wine sensory room, a virtual fermenter and a 360-degree video room”? – he adopts a strictly old-school philosophy when it comes to the business of wine.

Family business: Chester Osborne is the fourth generation of his family to run the business that started in 1912.
Family business: Chester Osborne is the fourth generation of his family to run the business that started in 1912.

All d’Arenberg wines, red and white, are still basket pressed, with red wines foot-trod during fermentation.

The process is detailed on d’Arenberg’s website: white wines are basket pressed before fermentation to ensure no colour or tannins are extracted from the skins, and the reds are pressed later. After pressing, reds are transferred to barrel to complete fermentation, and then aged on lees to slow ageing, keep the wine fresh and reduce oak influence.

The wines do not undertake fining or filtration prior to bottling. The tried and tested ways make for a labour-intensive process, but the quality of the wines reflects these gentle methods.

Chester, the fourth generation of his family to run the business that started in 1912, now works with 30 different grape varieties and makes more than 70 wines at his fully certified organic winery. Most bottles still carry the famous red stripe on the label, conceived by his father, d’Arry Osborn, in 1958.

It’s a formula that continues to win global praise: in 2020 d’Arenberg cleaned up at the prestigious London Wine Competition, being named Winery of the Show. Its flagship shiraz, The Dead Arm, won Wine of the Show and a host of other awards.

As our club president, James Halliday, has said, d’Arenberg “has kept its 100-year-old heritage while moving into the 21st century with flair and elan”. This is an exceptional offer.

d’Arenberg Coppermine Road McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

From d’Arenberg’s very best cabernet vineyard, which borders Coppermine Road. An excellent vintage, which produced slow-ripening fruit and, ultimately, a superbly balanced wine. Lifted black and red fruit aromas, with touches of olive, clove, roasted tomato, capsicum and sage. A rich concentrated palate with savoury complexity melding with blackberry and raspberry flavours, supported by fine chalky tannins drawing to a long, persistent finish. An absolute beauty that will continue to evolve for 20 years. 97 points from Huon Hooke; 95 points from James Halliday. Part of d’Arenberg’s Icon range (which includes The Dead Arm Shiraz and The Ironstone Pressings Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre). 14.5% alc; RRP $76 a bottle.

SPECIALS $26.99 a bottle in d’Arenberg dozen

d’Arenberg Thunderstep Shiraz 2019

As legend has it, Chester’s great grandfather, Joseph Osborn, funded his new winery in 1912 by selling his beloved racehorses, which included Thunderstep. The stylish 2019 delivers an array of dark fruit flavours – plums, blackberries and blueberries – edged with notes of black pepper, dark chocolate, bay leaf and fennel, which linger on the finish. Complex and concentrated. Blended with a touch of viognier (following French tradition), elevating the wine’s enticing aromas. Scored double gold at the Gilbert & Gaillard International Competition. 14.5% alc; RRP $40 a bottle.

SPECIALS $24.99 in any dozen; $26.99 in d’Arenberg dozen

d’Arenberg The Custodian McLaren Vale Grenache 2018

 
 

An absolute delight and shows the wisdom of Chester’s father, d’Arry, who refused to remove the family’s grenache vineyards during South Australia’s “vine pull” scheme in the 1980s. Today d’Arenberg is home to nearly one third of McLaren Vale’s old bush vine grenache. Red fruits, violets and tomato leaves on the nose, leading to raspberries, pomegranate and rhubarb flavours, with cloves and cedar spice characters adding complexity. Velvety tannins and crisp acidity deliver a dry, clean finish. Smooth, easy drinking now; exciting future in store. 94 points from Team Halliday and a red star for exceptional value. 14.5% alc; RRP $21 a bottle.

SPECIALS $19.99 in any dozen; $26.99 in d’Arenberg dozen

D’ARENBERG SPECIAL Four bottles of each wine above for $26.99 a bottle. SAVE $133 a dozen.

15-BOTTLE SPECIAL Add three bottles of d’Arenberg The Witches Berry McLaren Vale Chardonnay 2021 for $27.99 a bottle across the deal. SAVE $156 for 15 bottles.

d’Arenberg The Witches Berry McLaren Vale Chardonnay 2021

Aromas of pineapple, green apple and peach hint at the tropical fruit medley on the palate: white peaches, ripe pineapple, honey dew melon and orange blossom with hazelnut, nougat and vanilla notes. Sixty per cent of the wine was matured for seven months in old French oak. Fresh natural acidity and a refreshing citrusy finish. Organic. Bring on summer. 13.5% alc; RRP $26 a bottle

SPECIAL $24.99 in any dozen

Order online or telephone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.

John Lehmann
John LehmannManaging Director - The Australian and News Prestige Network

John Lehmann is Managing Director of The Australian, the News Prestige Network and NSW mastheads including The Daily and Sunday Telegraphs. He was Editor of The Australian for four years, leading the masthead to two Newspaper of Year Awards and record audience growth. John believes that world-class storytelling and riveting content is the key to commercial success. Before taking on executive roles, he worked as an editor and reporter in Australia and the United States for 25 years, covering business, media, politics and crime. At the New York Post, he reported extensively on the September 11 terror attacks and hunt for Osama bin Laden. John is a former Editor at Large of The Daily Telegraph, where he helped create major advocacy campaigns including the Bradfield Oration, and has covered Olympic Games in the United States, Russia and Sydney. He also once ran a liquor distribution business and writes a weekly column for The Australian Wine Club, where he moonlights as Cellar Director.

Add your comment to this story

To join the conversation, please Don't have an account? Register

Join the conversation, you are commenting as Logout

Original URL: https://www.theaustralian.com.au/life/food-drink/darenberg-mclaren-vale-classics-showcase-coppermine-road-cabernet-thunderstep-shiraz-and-custodian-grenache/news-story/019bcf21060106bedc92dd52cc530cb6