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First time at Tulum? Try the mantu. The delicate beef dumplings are emblematic of Istanbul expat Coskun Uysal’s take on Turkish food: at once rugged and refined, the power of chilli-dusted garlic yoghurt mollified by burnt butter.

It’s a theme threaded through the menu at this bijou neighbourhood haunt, where the dining room is accented by turquoise tiles and flickering candlelight. Take the kuzu, a dish of rustic slow-cooked lamb amplified with prune jam and beetroot molasses. Or the ancient grain pilaf made with tahini and cauliflower hummus, intensified by rosewater-spiked dark chocolate (it works).

While you can expand your wine horizons with Turkish drops by the glass, it’s hard to resist the charm of jewel-hued cocktails that play cleverly with ingredients such as apple tea, Aleppo pepper and even feta cheese.