By the beautiful blustery bay, next to shops selling ice-cream and coastal-chic homewares, sits an unprepossessing spot that’s pure Osaka.

Helmed by a Japanese husband and wife, Tomo’s has a charmingly ramshackle interior, its mint walls peppered with fish-shaped plaques and prints by Kozyndan. Bento boxes, udon soups and rice bowls keep the time-poor happy at lunch.

Dinner bounces from sushi – perhaps the Inverloch roll of fresh tuna, prawn and flying fish roe – to chunky pork gyoza, pan-fried to a dark sheen. Miso eggplant reaches even saltier heights with its minced chicken topping.

Baby prawns are swaddled in gossamer tempura, offset by dunks in chilli-mite, a sauce with all the umami of its namesake. With a hefty sake menu, Sapporo on tap and Japanese chef’s knives for sale, you could forget where you are. No wonder this place is always full.