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Opening with three pristine, unadorned cuts of prized bluefin tuna is a strong play. But Yong Hyun has no shortage of tricks. Wearing chef’s whites as sharp as knives, he casts a dozen diners under the spell of sushi.

Across the meal, 15 pieces of fish – much of it Australian – are handed to mesmerised guests: Tasmanian ocean trout speckled with curls of lime zest; springy and firm Victorian duckfish; flathead dotted with umeboshi. Tiny bricks of pressed rice, scampi and bonito butter are blow-torched to luxuriously nutty, salty heights.

Each seat grants views of steely blades transforming ama ebi, fish and scallops into bite-sized accordions and rosettes, while upbeat electronica and laughter between chefs and guests soften the harsh geometry of the room. Button-shaped orange entremets with whimsical hojicha swirls are a refreshing farewell.