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Curry laksa’s outsized reputation in Melbourne means fans of this Peranakan dish are spoilt for choice. Pappa Laksa ranks among the best for its complex soup base, a harmony of prawn and chicken bone broth, warming spices and coconut milk.

The king seafood laksa comes with a lavish array of ingredients, and the kitchen’s timing of each addition is perfect. Prawns are plump and juicy, eggplant gooey, and soft-shell crab crisp (until submerged by your chopsticks).

Other quintessential Malaysian-Chinese staples are faithfully produced. Char kwai teow is properly made with fried lard and soft rice noodles that hold pleasing wok hei, tangled with prawn, squid, fish cake and lap cheong. Tofu prawn puffs covered in sesame seeds have retro charm, while the non-alc drinks list lets you indulge big-kid cravings for iced Milo, sparkling Ribena or three layer milk tea.