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The writing is literally on the wall at this futuristic barbecue utopia: a neon sign reads “go beef or go home”. Sound advice, particularly if it leads you to the Happiness Set: a procession of wagyu cuts interspersed with tender pork belly.

Grill it yourself or leave it to the pros, which keeps you free to snack on seaweed spring rolls. Stuffed with potato-starch noodles, wrapped in seaweed, battered and fried crisp, they’re a two-tone feat of textural ingenuity. Getting jjigae with it? Make it the chadol doenjang stew: beef, crab and clams anchored by fermented bean broth.

You’ll see plenty of diners dropping shots of soju into their pints. Follow their lead for the full Mansae experience. Equally joyous are marshmallow-covered black sesame popsicles blow-torched tableside. Watch in delight as the mallow caramelises before your eyes.