When the dishes on the menu outnumber seating capacity, it’s easy to lose yourself in what-to-order limbo. There’s smashed cucumber tingling with Sichuan pepper, stoner-worthy grilled corn with kimchi mayo and powdered parmesan, and a vegetable crisper’s worth of Chinese broccoli.

But you’re here for the ramen, which – should you stay the course – will bring generous bowls of the stuff: yuzu-spiked with springy wheat noodles, thick-cut chashu pork and a wobbly onsen egg. Chirpy staff match the high-octane decor. Colourful cans of Japanese beer, cartoon action figurines and Polaroids of smiling regulars line the walls, and paper lanterns hang overhead.

It’s cosy enough to make you stay for cinnamon-dusted bao filled with red bean paste. Can’t squeeze into the 25-seater room? Join those spilling out onto the street, or pull up a stool in the dogleg of an alley running alongside.