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What was once a schmick 40-seater has had a growth spurt. By taking over the shop next door, Aromi has doubled its seating capacity and tripled its floor space, but chef Paolo Masciopinto’s technique-driven cooking remains the same.

Squares of gnocco fritto encase gooey provolone and scamorza, the radiating heat warming a slice of capocollo draped on top. Short ribbons of scialatielli are matched with crayfish morsels, pistachio pesto and dollops of citrus foam. And cavatelli is paired with house-made pork sausage and pea-saffron cream.

Rosemary-spiked peach Melba moves in a more whimsical direction, tricked up with fairy floss, popping candy and wisps of liquid nitrogen. White linen, smart crockery and a brief but clever selection of mainly Italian wines complete a polished package.