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‘Perfect hum of heat’: The simple pasta recipe Jamie Oliver (and wife Jools) can’t get enough of

From the “out-of-control delicious” lobster rolls at a popular Melbourne restaurant to a legendary Japanese destination diner in Sydney, Jamie shares his favourite food hotspots.

Jane Rocca
Jane Rocca

If you’ve followed the long career of British celebrity chef, cookbook author and child health campaigner Jamie Oliver, you might have seen him on TV zipping across Italy in a campervan, road tripping across the United States, or visiting British school canteens on a mission to improve children’s lunches.

Jamie Oliver has been visiting and enjoying Australia’s food scene for 25 years.
Jamie Oliver has been visiting and enjoying Australia’s food scene for 25 years.Paul Stuart / ©2022 Jamie Oliver Enterprises Ltd

But one place you won’t have seen him before is at the Sydney Opera House. Next month, he takes the concert hall stage to talk about his 24 years in the public eye with MasterChef and Dessert Masters co-host Melissa Leong.

The father of five, who made his TV debut in 1999 as an eager shaggy-haired cook, has published more than 35 cookbooks. He talks to Good Food ahead of his visit.

Eating in

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Your go-to dish at home?

It has to be spaghetti arrabbiata, a really simple tomato sauce, heavy on the chilli for the perfect hum of heat. I slowly cook the chillies in olive oil, then add tomatoes, garlic and some fresh herbs – probably basil, but oregano would work, too – then let it all simmer while I cook the pasta. I like it served with spaghetti, but my wife, Jools, prefers rigatoni or penne. If I’m feeling fancy, I might add a
swig of vodka in with the tomatoes. I then toss everything together, season really well, and top with crunchy garlic and parmesan breadcrumbs that are pan-fried until lovely and golden. That’s the steal for [Oliver’s wife] Jools. What I love about it is that it’s really affordable, super comforting, and it always hits the spot. It’s such a beautiful thing.

My guilty pleasure

It has to be Hula Hoops Salt & Vinegar crisps, some very good farmhouse Cheddar cheese from Westcombe or Montgomery’s Cheese and a glass of good whisky on ice (nothing peaty or smoky). I pick up a Hula Hoop and push it into the cheese to create a very agreeable mouthful. If I’m feeling sassy, I might shake a drop of chilli sauce into the cheese centre. It’s a dichotomy of a snack and a good little beginning to a great night – trust me, you’ve got to try it.

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Best kitchen wisdom I cling to

Restraint is the most important ingredient. Simplicity isn’t as easy as everyone always says because it requires you to be focused and confident, and to not let your ego or your paranoia make you add another ingredient or process just for the sake of it. It’s both empowering and inspiring to show restraint, but it’s also torturous. So the happy spot falls somewhere in the middle. Three, four, five
ingredients can genuinely be effective, and create delicious perfection, I really believe that. Having done a couple of five-ingredient books over the years, I’ve lived up to that principle for quite a long time.

Eating out

My favourite hometown restaurant (and go-to meal)

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One of my favourite places has to be Padella near Borough Market in London. I order the nine-hour beef shin, slow-cooked in beautiful red wine and sweet tomatoes, served with perfectly cooked cabbage. It’s a joy every time I visit. I love it there.

Padella restaurant in London.
Padella restaurant in London.Ian Tuttle/ Eye R8 Productions Ltd

My favourite hometown cafe and/or bar

Chater’s in Saffron Walden is just up the road from us in Essex: it’s a cafe by day, and an aperitivo bar by night. They make all their pasta on-site and source really good ingredients for their tapas, mezze and antipasti. They’ve also got a fantastic selection of wines, but probably more interestingly, they’ve got their own distillery on site – called Vault – making their own vermouth, bitters and botanicals. I would highly recommend their Vault Americano: Forest vermouth and Vault bitters topped up with soda and a wedge of orange. That and a plate of carbonara and I’m very, very happy.

Jamie Oliver in 2000, soon after the debut of his first TV series, The Naked Chef.
Jamie Oliver in 2000, soon after the debut of his first TV series, The Naked Chef.Jennifer Soo
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On the road

What is your favourite place to eat in Australia?

This is almost impossible to answer! I’ve been visiting and enjoying Australia’s food scene for 25 years now, and I’ve got loads of amazing memories. I love the fusion of Australian and Japanese cuisine that both Sydney and Melbourne do so well. I once visited Tetsuya’s and ended up eating with him in his office, poring over his cookbook collection. It was unreal. His restaurant has got diligence, and he’s a man full of humour. His food is proper high-end dining – the confit of ocean trout is next-level. He does an amazing cocktail and is, frankly, just a beautiful man.

Sydney favourites

When I’m in Sydney, I love to visit Neil Perry [at Margaret]. He’s the don of the industry, such a talent. Luke Mangan’s Salt restaurant was a big winner back in the day. [Now closed] Golden Century restaurant at 2am is another big Sydney memory for me. And, of course, I’ve got to talk about chef Josh Niland. He’s such a game-changer in the fish and seafood world and I can’t wait to visit Saint Peter again. Last time I was there I was sat next to Nigella Lawson – such a fun night. OMG, Josh just texted me as I am talking to you! Literally, as I was talking about Saint Peter. That is so creepy. If that’s not a happy sign, I don’t know what is.

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Melbourne favourites

In Melbourne, I love Flower Drum, which is still one of the most iconic restaurants. I’ve been many times. I visited Supernormal on my first trip to Melbourne. Andrew McConnell’s food is just incredible and very well executed – the place has an amazing atmosphere. The lobster rolls were out-of-control delicious. And I’ve had numerous meals at Cumulus Inc. over the years, which is also Andrew’s. It’s still going strong and the experience is as good as ever. They just celebrated 15 years, which is pretty special. In my view, Andrew continues to set the pace in the Melbourne culinary scene. I was lucky enough to enjoy an incredible meal at Vue de Monde’s chef’s table when we were opening Fifteen Melbourne. I loved the pizza at Leonardo’s Pizza Palace. They have an old-school retro feel that I just loved.

Supernormal’s “out-of-control delicious” lobster rolls.
Supernormal’s “out-of-control delicious” lobster rolls.Jo McGann

What’s your favourite food city and why?

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When I was travelling around the Mediterranean researching 5 Ingredients Mediterranean, one place that stood out was Marseille. It’s the oldest city in France – kind of the motherland when it comes to cooking. The French are extraordinary at food at every level. It’s interesting because it’s got this history of immigration and movement of people, right up to the current day. So you get all these incredible African, Arabic and Italian influences melding with French. It’s incredible. But more than that, it’s a cool city. There’s no pretence. No being trendy, or following the crowd. If you walk around the streets at 7 or 8 o’clock at night, everyone’s got a thing going on: a quirk; a little bit of weirdness; a little bit of chic. They kind of push the norms and I really love that. It feels to me that they really live in the moment. As a father to five kids, that’s so inspirational and important to me.

Jamie Oliver in conversation with Melissa Leong takes place at the Sydney Opera House concert hall on November 11. Tickets from $49 at sydneyoperahouse.com/talks-ideas/jamie-oliver

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Jane RoccaJane Rocca is a regular contributor to Sunday Life Magazine, Executive Style, The Age EG, columnist and features writer at Domain Review, Domain Living’s Personal Space page. She is a published author of four books.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/tips-and-advice/jamie-oliver-s-favourite-places-to-eat-drink-and-road-trip-in-australia-and-beyond-20231016-p5ecnm.html