The name means ‘between us’ in Greek, and, between us, if you squint as you’re sitting outside this modest family-run joint on a sunny day, you could be on holiday in the Aegean. The warm welcome and genuinely home-cooked, super-fresh food has a lot to do with it, including the ricotta and fetta triangles; the Cretan dako (rye rusk topped with pureed tomato, Greek fetta, oregano and olive oil); and the mixed plate with garlicky grilled chicken breast, Greek salad, grilled haloumi, crisp potatoes, bread and tzatziki. Servings are generous; so you’ll want, but won’t need, that piece of Greek delight with your coffee.