Seven exciting new bakeries to spend your dough on (plus, an inner west favourite returns)
From wine bar bakeries, to fine-dining pastries, these are the next wave of bougie bakeries in Sydney.
On any given Saturday morning, there are dozens of early risers queuing at bakeries across Sydney. Their popularity has steadily risen with the introduction of modern bakehouses such as A.P Bakery, Goodwood and Home Croissanterie, where customers discover a sense of culinary bliss among the bubbly, stracciatella-topped focaccias; the buttery potato and sea salt croissants; and the pandan-coconut danishes.
Now, with more than eight bakeries set to open (or reopen) within the next month or so, the city seems on the cusp of a second wave. From wine bar bakeries, to fine-dining pastries, these are some of the most interesting additions to come.
Shadow Baking, Darlinghurst
Three chefs from Gelato Messina will open Darlinghurst bakery Shadow Baking on Saturday, October 27, following the sell-out success of their September pop-up and monthly market stalls. The former fine-dining chefs apply characteristic Messina creativity to their viennoiserie, with a menu that includes eggs benny tarts, coconut and pandan brioche and a reuben sandwich with house-made pastrami on a salty pretzel croissant.
241 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst, nomnie.com/shadowbaking
Penny Fours, Balmain
Penny Fours is a beloved inner west bakery owned and operated by pastry chef Penelope Ransley (ex-Tetsuya’s, Sepia and Iggy’s). It relocated from Leichhardt to Balmain in May, then closed in June following a kitchen fire. But it’s back from Thursday, October 26, Ransley tells Good Food. The menu will feature old favourites alongside new flavours, with standouts like almond raspberry croissants (filled with custard and house-made raspberry jam) and “the bees knees” (twice-baked croissants with ricotta cream, leatherwood honey, cinnamon and walnuts).
485A Darling Street, Balmain, instagram.com/pennyfours
Flour Bar, Moss Vale
Flour Bar cleverly marries the concept of a bakery with that of a wine bar. By day, there are freshly baked pastries alongside an extensive menu of more substantial dishes (think eggs on thick slices of house-made sourdough and picanha pie with Brazilian-style rump cap); by night, a selection of NSW wines chosen by sommelier and owner Ben Shepherd (ex- Biota, Chu). The pair opened Flour Bar on Thursday, with hopes of creating a social hub that embodies “the long-lost art of hospitality: honest [and] unpretentious”.
386 Argyle Street, Moss Vale, flourbar.com.au
Bobo’s Bakery, Kingsford
After more than a decade of dreaming of opening her own bakery, Welsh-born Rowan Attwell finally bit the bullet in September. Her first venture, Bobo Bakery, will begin as a pop-up, where customers can order online for pickup at her new commercial kitchen in Kingsford. There’ll be lots of Attwell’s brownies (in flavours such as dulce de leche and sea salt, or raspberry and pistachio), as well as a growing range of other baked goods, like cereal milk cookies and pumpkin and peanut butter treats for your pup.
Loaded Bake House, Brighton Le Sands
Baker Adam Ajami is taking his supersized, yeast-raised doughnuts to Brighton Le Sands, where he’s planning to open his first brick-and-mortar bakery towards the end of October. Ajami specialises in “loaded” doughnuts (filled with everything from classic custard to tiramisu) and long johns (glazed bar-shaped doughnuts). Customers can also expect a variety of cronuts, milkshakes and doughnut ice-cream cones – perfect for a post-beach summer treat.
115 The Grand Parade, Brighton Le Sands, loadedbakehouse.com.au
Berkelo, Terrey Hills
Bakery goes bush at Berkelo’s newest location in Terrey Hills, opened in September. It follows the north-side bakery’s short-lived venture at nearby Bar Berkelo, which received positive feedback before its surprise closure in March. The new venture features lush green gardens, wood picnic tables, and Single O coffee being poured at a weatherboard cottage cafe. There are plans for a full eat-in menu, but meanwhile, you can pick up a selection of beautiful pastries, sourdough bread, and freshly made pasta, all made using exclusively Australian grains.
205 Mona Vale Road, Terrey Hills, berkelo.com.au
Son of a Baker, Leichhardt
Customers will be able to watch through a large glass window as owner-baker Roman Urosevski and his team create everything from chocolate battons (with raspberry and chocolate hazelnut smear) to brekkie bacon and egg sandwiches (served on croissant “bread”) at the fourth Son of a Baker location, set to open around Christmas. Urosevski takes inspiration from his father, who introduced him to the trade from just eight years old. “[SOB] ties the legacy of my father’s teachings [while] giving me space to create my own path,” Urosevski says. The pastries use coconut oil instead of butter, making them vegan-friendly.
99 Moore Street, Leichhardt, sonofabaker.com.au
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